Jefbyos

About strings, i never recommand anything in particular because it's a matter of taste, really. There are few brands for which i could say they offer something specific : DR, Skull strings with their hard tension well-suited to metal players, or Elixir and their gore-tex thing that sound very clear and feel very comfortable. I like using Elixir strings on some acoustic guitars (if they don't sound too harsh with them !), on bass guitar for the playability (but also it brings some high tones, which is ok if you like modern active slap sounding)... But i definitely won't put those strings on most electric guitars, which doesn't need that sound. Also, you should know that they are expensive, and don't last that much... Other than that, most of the common brands are pretty much alike to me. The differences are, maybe, the durability, depending of your sweat...You'll know which brand resist longer with you by trying, basically. Considering that, I often buy Dean Markley for instruments that doesn't require a specific type of strings, because they're available everywhere, they're cheap, you'll find a good offer of tensions, and you'll get the job done with them.

One thing strikes me : you said that you went to a store to get the job done. Didn't the guitar tech change your strings ? Or, did he tried to do the job on your guitar equipped with an used set of strings ? If it's the latter, i would definitely advise to seek a more skilled guitar tech... I found a video where the guy explains it well, i guess. I could add one or two tricks of my own, but it would complicate things for beginners (also considering my english is far from perfect). Consider you have everything you really need there, if you can do the same you're good to go ;)

If i may : some people tends to let their attention diverted by any buzz sound they may hear from the neck of their electric instrument (especially beginners playing at home at low level). An electric guitar is not a classical nor a folk guitar : what really matters is what your ear through your amplifier. If you can't hear any buzz there, you're good to go, whether you may hear some coming from the neck of your instrument or not. That is important to keep that in mind, because trying to totally eradicate any buzz sound will lead you to ruin the playing comfort you may obtain of your instrument. The more you'll raise your strings or bow your neck, the harder it becomes for your left hand (if you're righty of course), to push the strings and obtain a clean sound. This will also increase the difficulty to bend the strings... The playing comfort one may achieve depends of the quality level of the instrument (and technical choices made by the craftsman - to make it short, you won't be able to obtain the same playability on a Gibson LP than on a PRS). It also depends of your playing style : if you're the soft attack kind, it will definitely help. Players with a powerful right hand and thick mediators will experience more buzzing sounds... Sometimes, and depending your playing style and what your guitar may support, changing the strings gauge may be a good idea : thicker gauges will definitely add tension you'll feel when pressing or bending the strings, but they also tends to have a thinner vibration area for an attack of an equal strength, allowing to go a bit closer to the neck. Plus, you'll get a guitar with a better support of low tunings. Also about strings height : the lower you get, the brighter your sound will be, due to the proximity of the frets. I personally think that it's a good thing to balance your instrument so you may achieve a clear and metallic sound with a powerful stroke. That is useful to get more expressibility from your instrument. Having a low action instrument is also a great way to get a powerful metal sound effortlessly... In any case, it's strongly recommended to adjust your instrument with a brand new set of strings. The same goes if you change your strings : check of your instrument settings (especially if changing the gauge obviously, but you may perform a quick check even if you replace with the same gauge, same brand). And think to do that periodically, especially when your guitar is brand new - the wood is still a bit wet, and is often more flexible. It's important for the playability and don't let the neck of your instrument taking bad habits... Finally, one more advice that some skilled players doesn't necessary do (but should do) : when mounting your strings (unless you have locking tuners), always let enough to do 3-5 complete turns of the headstock, in direction of the head. It depends of the strings (lowers can be 3, and increasing when going to higher strings). For a start, that helps the note to vibrate more on all your instrument. And, going back to the topic : that increases the string angle towards the neck. If some of you ever wondered why the head of a guitar is not in line with the neck, but with an angle (like on a Les Paul guitar) or parallel but a bit below (like on a Stratocaster) : this is for reducing the buzz. So my advice would be to mount your strings carefully, like you saw on your instrument when you bought it brand new, inducing some turns around the headstock to increase that angle a bit. If you found that doing so, mounting your strings takes too much time, and especially if you change your stings very often : buy a peg winder. Totally worth it. Hope that helps.

I confirm that was the "Note auto-adjust" checkbox. Now i blame myself not to have started by searching harder that function, because it would have saved time to just correct the tempo track and having all notes moving accordingly from the start, and not to have to correct the faulty bits by hand... That's a lesson learned, i guess. Thanks RayneBc, and also Magna Charter for the shortcuts ;)

I knew that function should have been implemented, but i'd honestly never thought searching in the preference panel. ^^ Thanks for helping me, I keep you posted ;)

I just tried today what you suggested (sort of). I'm still learning so i figured that it would be a good idea to open one CDLC that i like to play on bass (namely, david bowie's Starman), that needs polishing (in my opinion). I found the tempo on that one not to be very accurate sometimes, which been confirmed when i looked more closely at the tempo map. So, i started by correcting all the faulty tempo bars. There's the catch : all the notes were placed (i assume) depending the old tempo map, and did not followed the modification. That may makes sense, not to impose the modification to the user and letting him to decide if notes has to follow the tempo modifications, or not. So, i turned the grid on, then the "grid snap"... And nothing happened. :( Looking at the EOF help, i saw that the software just indicates when a note does not match the grid by adding a small thin red line... but i couldn't find any feature to quantize selected notes to the grid. Which means that i have to manually match every note to the grid (exception to those who may be left intentionally a bit off, or fast notes under the grid quantification). That, for each difficulty track, for each instruments. :o So i tried to erase the notes from a difficulty track, and copy/paste the exact same notes from another EOF instance. Unfortunately, the result was exactly the same, so it seems that manually correct each note is mandatory... :angry: It took me almost 1 hour just to correct each notes on the bass tracks (without counting the work to fine-tune the tempo track, of course), so if anyone has any suggestion... I still have lead and rhythm guitar to do, each having 4-6 difficulty levels... ^^

Damn, i didn't realise that. So i guess i'll keep this multitrack version for my personal use only. I'll try to choose my next projects more carefully, so i may share with the community. ;) Thanks raynebc, i tried some copy/paste cheats on a same session - but i didn't thought to open two instances of EOF. I'll give it a try and let you know... ;)

Hi everyone, I discovered that forum quite recently, when searching the way to build my own CDLC. I have yet little experience on that (but a bit in audio & musical instruments in general), so i first gave a try by modifying existing CDLC - looks like a good way to learn. I also build one CDLC of my own (that i'll gladly share since i'll understand how) : a (noguitar) and a (nobass) version of "Man in a box", from Alice in chains. I didn't build it from scratch, though : i used the existing one, and just replaced the audio for a mix without the concerned instrument, from multitrack source. Here is the problem i faced : the mixdowns i got were a bit slower than the tempo map in the existing CDLC song. That looked not a problem to me, as I already had a tempo map done in my DAW, wich is possible to import in EOF as MIDI... BUT, when importing any "real guitar"/"realbass" Rocksmith track, the tempo map is replaced by the one that comes with the notes. Unfortunately, i found the contrary didn't work, loading the tempo map after the track notes does not replace it. :( I was not ready to redo the sync job in EOF, so for that song i finally time-streched the audio mixdowns, to conform the existing tempo map (with one or two adjustments). That worked well, but i'd like to know that i missed, and being able to import my midi tempo maps easily. There is a major reason to that : EOF allow to to a good job for editing tempo maps (even though i find doing this with my DAW more quicker and accurate). BUT as it happens, i already have several multitrack songs with midi tempo tracks already done - that i would like to use to build more (noguitar) and (nobass) CDLC.^^ Any idea how to solve that issue ?