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-= HOW TO BUILD A PROFESSIONAL ROCKSMITH Plug´n´Play USB / BT FLOORBOARD FOR TONECHANGE for less than 30$/€ =-

floorboard toneswitch hardware diy guide footswitch usb blootooth

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#1
Offline   Rodman

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-= HOW TO BUILD A PROFESSIONAL ROCKSMITH Plug´n´Play USB / BT FLOORBOARD FOR TONECHANGE for less than 30$/€ =-

Latest Update: 20.01.2015

29o51jd.jpg



This video is just a proof of concept, it is gonna edit: might, with a chance of slim to none be replaced by a better one as soon as my hardware hell has vanished … sigh…

Features (V2.0):

  • KEYBOARD INTERFACE – works as standard Keyboard – no special drivers, software or hacks needed
  • PLUG AND PLAY for Windows and Mac
  • USB or BLUETOOTH ver. available.
  • EASY TO BUILD - ONLY 5 Wires to SOLDER
  • CHEAP
  • INGAME TONESWITCH everywhere (LAS, SA, SESSION MODE, MENU….)

29o51jd.jpg
You want one of those –
Here is the DIY HOW TO:

Needed:

  • 4 Button Floorboard of your choice (no matter what connector it has) (20€ +)
  • A USB or BT Keyboard (use an old or get a defective one (Keys 1,2,3,4 gotta be working) (0-25€)
  • Soldering stuff incl.
  • 5 thin wires (e.g. an old IDE Cable)
  • Multimeter (optional but makes it easier)
  • A screwdriver
  • Gaffer Tape
  • A textmarker (for cd labeling)

390xy.jpg
Difficulty: easy

  • If you have sucessfully soldered anything before – you´re gonna do it for sure
  • If you have never soldered anything before – thats a rather easy task to start off

Time:
A few hours or less (my second version was done from scratch in 30 mins)


So here we go!
Grab your Keyboard (The HP one i used has a small interface that will fit in almost any footswitch, a long enough cable and a matrix that is easy to follow – hence the used button wiring is easy to determine).

-Unscrew and open it.

f00ua0.jpg

As in my pics below mark the buttons 1-4 (not on numpad) .
When you lift the rubber layer you see the wiring matrix.
Short explanation of keyboard function: 2 matrixes with wires – when pressed together = 2 pins on the interface board are connected and thats the buttons signal.
So – mark the buttons you wanna use on both layers of the matrix (waterproof marker for cd labeling works good)

Optional: if you have extra switches on the floorboard you might wanna use extra keys like: Enter, Esc, Up, Down – if so – mark them too!
eq1htt.jpg

Now for the hardest (not really) part:
Go to Button 1 and follow the wires (white lines) on both matrixes to the interface board. Double check, you can follow them with different color textmarkerst to make sure, but that shouldnt be needed, and is way too professional for my way of doing stuff like that ;)
Now you should have found the two pins on the interface board that handle „1“
(Alternative: search gxxgle for schematics / pinout dor your specific keyboard)
To test:







- I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR DAMAGED HARDWARE OF YOURS -

Connect the usb plug to your computer, open a texteditor and shortcut the two pins that you have marked on the interface board – best with a multimeter set to resistance (ohm). Alt: use a piece of cable.
If everything is right – the text editor says: 1 – aint that great !

Now go on – follow the wires of button 2, 3 and 4 (and the extra buttons you might want)
It is very probable that you find a common ground for 1-4, so you should have five pins marked (i call em 1-4 and 0).
If there is no common ground = 8 pins determined (2 for each key) - no problem - read below!

10cixk5.jpg

Test all buttons the way above and if everything is ok you are ready to:
OPEN THE FLOORBOARD:


w7cs34.jpg
The board is gonna look a bit different for you unless you have the same 1st gen line 6 fb to work on...
Nevertheless - what you are searching for are the two pins for each buttons that are connected by a press on the button. The easiest way to find those is using a multimeter set to resistance (ohm) - adress 2 suspected pins - press the button and if the number on screen goes to 0 - these are the 2 pins to solder!

Furthermore: Check if there is a common ground (connection) between the individual buttons with the multimeter ("0" on screen means pins are connected and hence only one of them has to be wired to the ground of the keyboard interface)...
This is very probable, however if not (no "common ground" on fb board) you have 2 options:
#1 (recomended) connect one of the "to solder" pins of each button by soldering with the next one so only one of them has to be wired to "0" on keyboard interface. (see schematic diag 2)
#2 connect one of the "to solder" pins of each button by soldering with common ground of the keyboard interface - that way 8 wires to be soldered from kb interface to fbboard instead of 5.

If there is no "common ground" on kb interface, but you find 2 different pins for each key 1-4 just solder the 2 pins to the 2 pins of the fitting button in the floorboard board - in this cas you need to solder 8 wires (no problem)

If you have problems at any point pm me, post a pic of your situation, believe me - it is not gonna be so hard, i´m gonna help you.

When you are done you have:
- The pins on the floorboard to be wired
- the according pins on the keyboard interface sending "1" - "4"

WIRING
Solder the according pins (there are excellent youtube vids how to solder if you never have)

@Frack 's little tips for this :

>>The parallels contacts material you'll solder is copper covered with a carbon like stuff.
you can remove this carbon by using the FLAT part of one screwdriver or a blade, take care to don't scratch the copper though.
This carbon is a pain in the a.. to solder (try on one unused contact first) go very gently with several passes.

Once the copper is visible & clean put some solder in it, the differents parallels contacts
should not be short circuited, if it happends, heat the solder along the copper to minimise the quantity.

put some solder on the end of the wires & heat both when in contact, blow on it to accelerate the cooler process.

take care to not overheat the board or the added wires (as they are very thin) any telecom/computer wire is ok for this.<<

If you look at my pics you can see that i did some scratching on the kb interface pins, put some solder on and got a nice result with that.

Here a principal schematic diagram:
2wlsd8n.jpg
The black dots are the common ground on the fb board = they show a resistance of zero when tested against each other - hence only one of them has to be wired to common ground on keyboard interface.

Schematic diagram 2 (no common ground on fb board)
3008jk1.jpg
connect pins 1-4 by soldering and check with multimeter(ohm): pin 1 against 4: = zero = success

Schematic diagram 3 (no common ground on keyboard interface):
2568gns.jpg
so if you found 2 pins for each key 1-4 (instead of 1 for each and a common ground = 5) you gotta solder 8 wires instead of 5 as shown above, meaning that the pins with the same color on kb int connected = keypress.


2bd0yx.jpg

rqyk4w.jpg

wsehg.jpg

2ahytfp.jpg
2po9icz.jpg

finally -
n133gp.jpg


TESTING
Plug in to USB on PC/Mac or connect with bluetooth -
25yuq85.jpg
start text editor, press the buttons - when you get:
hvnrx0.jpg
you might have to recheck :)

if you get:
2lw8y81.jpg
it´s good

If a button press results in multiple inputs (e.g. you press Button 1 and "134" is the output)
This is most probably a result of the conections on the board. If you don´t want to go into detail of the wiring of your board you might have to do the following:
ay1du.jpg
Just cut the lines leading away from your "to solder" pins with a flat screwdriver for each button.
This stops the fb from working with the amp it was designed for, but it can be rewinded by a simple solder point easily if ever needed.

Test again!



FINISHING

!!!!!!!UNPLUG!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Fit the keyboard interface into your fb, make sure there is no short circuiting (easiest way - cover whole thing with gaffer tape !!!)
1fhd8p.jpg
please take a little more time than i obviously did here :)

35ksw0l.jpg
I had to drill a hole to make the cable fit - i left the original connector on the other side as it was - so it can still be used with line 6 equipment :)

214w0h2.jpg

Test again!

ROCK

If you like it HIT THANKS
If you need support pm me – i´ll assist you.

YOU HAVE TO POST A PIC or VID of your FINISHED PROJECT IN THIS THREAT!!!!

Regards,
R



#2
Offline   Teinashu

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Nice, Can't wait for the finished thing :)

Moving it to Gear Garage though.


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#3
Online   Molice

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OMG! Sush hardcore, soldering stuff. :) Thanks for your idea.



#4
Offline   Azrael

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Awesome!

Even the current short version is a very detailed guide, seems easy enough to follow.

I'll post some pics too and what hardware I used, if I am succesful :)


Check out my easy tutorial on how to add a metronome to your CDLC: Mute the original music, play only with the metronome and find out how good you really sound! Also: Find CDLCs that have the metronome enabled!

 

Want a USB-Footswitch that you can use to control the tone selection and all the menus in Rocksmith? Check out Rodman's Tutorial and my additions to that!  Footswitch_Logo.png

My CDLCs: Devin Townsend - Life, Deep Peace, Ih-Ah!, Deadhead; Farin Urlaub - Ok

My ideas for new features in Ignition, e.g. filters for Multitrack CDLC and Metronome CDLC.


#5
Online   Molice

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There photo with chart as i used now RS and pedals

P.s. Audiocard is ESI U46XL - selected default audio device in windows

And there must be active pickups on guitar or need setup compressor in gap between Di-Dox and RS cable for good recognition notes( for signal amplification after di-box)

YhtNYDj.jpg



#6
Offline   Rodman

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There photo with chart as i used now RS and pedals
P.s. Audiocard is ESI U46XL - selected default audio device in windows
And there must be active pickups on guitar or need setup compressor in gap between Di-Dox and RS cable for good recognition notes( for signal amplification after dit-box)
YhtNYDj.jpg


Omg!!!
All i can say right now - nice paddles!!!!


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#7
Offline   Frack

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WIRING:

Solder the according pins.

I've got a little tips for this :

 

The parallels contacts material you'll solder is copper covered with a carbon like stuff.

you can remove this carbon by using the FLAT part of one crewdriver or a blade, take care to don't scratch the copper though.

This carbon is a pain in the a.. to solder (try on one unused contact first) go very gently with several passes.

 

Once the copper is visible & clean put some solder in it, the differents parallels contacts

should not be short circuited, if it happends, heat the solder along the copper to minimise the quantity.

 

put some solder on the end of the wires & heat both when in contact, blow on it to accelerate the cooler process.

 

take care to not overheat the board or the added wires (as they are very thin) any telecom/computer wire is ok for this.


Frack%20Guitars_zpsk6ace3fh.gif


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#8
Offline   Rodman

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WIRING:
Solder the according pins.
I've got a little tips for this ...
 


Thx man, thats the spirit!

Didnt go into detail in soldering cause lack of time, just went the sloppy way recomending youtube vids...
O.c. I put your tips in the guide, thx again!!!

#9
Offline   Frack

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Glad you liked it Rodman, I've a little describe the process mainly for the carbon thing,

You can correct my spelling/gramatical mystakes too (thanks).

 

(I've used this mod 2 times before in year 2000 for playing at Quake 3 & some emulators with joystick, & more recently with real guitar to play on Fofix 4 years ago.)


Frack%20Guitars_zpsk6ace3fh.gif


#10
Offline   Azrael

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I am so exited! I am (more or less) done with my very own Rocksmith Footswitch and it is AWESOME!
 
Thanks again to Rodman for this great idea and this detailed tutorial. I would like to share my experience with all of you, because I extended the idea.
When I told him about my plans for the footswitch, a friend of mine had the idea to use a Arduino microcontroller instead of a regular keyboard. At first I thought this was way too much effort, but then I realized the potential.

Footswitch with the first three LEDs alight, so it is currently in Mode #3:
IMG_6543s.jpg?psid=1
 
Here is a link to a folder with some more pictures: http://1drv.ms/1sls8Pi

So, what are the advantages of using the Arduino instead of a keyboard?
Arduino is a tool / platform / combination of both open source hardware and software. The microcontrollers have in- and output pins that can receive signals (e.g. closing an electrical circuit by pushing a botton) or send signals (e.g. lighting a LED by sending current through an output). When connected to a PC (via USB), they can also send signals to the computer, for example (emulated) keyboard signals. The code to control how the Arduino works is written in C - it is very easy, due to the number of tutorials available.
 
By writing a useful program and uploading it to the Arduino, I enabled my footswitch to do lots of things, not only send the keyboard keys 1, 2, 3 and 4.
With the 5th button on my footswitch, I can select different modes by counting how many times I pressed it. It works something like that:
 

In Mode 1 the buttons control the Tone Selection.
 
When I press button #5, Riff Repeater (Mode 2) is entered and the buttons become 9, p, o, 0.
Pressing #5 in Mode 2 once sends a "SPACEBAR" to start repeating, pressing #5 twice instead sends "DELETE", to exit Riff Repeater.
 
When #5 is pressed twice in Mode 1, it enters the Menu Mode (Mode 3) where the buttons become UP, DOWN, LEFT and RIGHT
Pressing #5 in Mode 3 once sends "ENTER" and twice sends "ESC". This allows to navigate through all the menues.
 
Pressing #5 four times or more at any point returns to Mode 1.
 
I light up the LEDs over the buttons to show which tone is currently selected, count how many times I press button #5 or show which mode I am currently in.

 
This explanation is not complete, but I hope you get the idea!
The next thing I want to implement is a "hold button" command in Menu Mode to be able to navigate through longer lists or change settings like volume more easily.
But at this point I can already control the whole game with nothing but my feet :D
(Edit 1 hour later: I think I found a good way. If I press a button several times in a certain amount of time, it is now set to be kept pressed until I press another button.)
 
So, what components did I use?
 
I bought the Fame FS500 5 button footswitch. Here is a link to a german store, where it only costs 24,90€.
http://www.musicstor...13-448a5bd44d45
 
It was the cheapest footswitch with 5 buttons that I could find on the internet, but the quality is very satisfying. The casing is completely made of metal (no plastic) and has a rubber bottom that prevents it from sliding around on the floor. It's also quite heavy, which feels good. When unscrewing the original 7 pin connector, the remaining hole is large enough to fit a usb plug through.
The soldering and electrical connections inside are done well. Infact due to the pin connector that was used, I was able to connect the Arduino to the buttons with only pin cables. Soldering was only required to separately control the LEDs.
 
The Arduino Board is a Arduino Leonardo (not all Arduinos can be used as emulated keyboards).
Here is one tutorial that shows how to send keystrokes with the push of a button:
http://arduino.cc/en...KeyboardMessage
And this one shows how to control a LED:
http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Fade
 
Basically all I had to do was combine and extend those tutorials for 5 buttons and 5 LEDs. If you want to do it yourself those tutorials should tell you everything you need, so I won't do my own tutorial. But if anyone is interested, I am happy to share the code of my program!
You need a special (free) software and drivers for the Arduino. Compiling and uploading a new program to the Arduino and resetting it takes about 10 seconds.
But once you uploaded a program, emulating a keyboard works plug&play on any other PC (I tested Win 7 and 8), no drivers required.
 
 
As you can see, the possibilities are nearly endless. I can extend the functionality for Rocksmith, but of course I can also use the footwitch for any other purpose.
I could configure the buttons for use on the desktop or in other games and either upload a new program each time I want to use it for something else, or use the buttons to change the way it works.
 
This is the first time I have used an Arduino, and it is exiting to think about what completely different stuff can be done with those. Go check out the "What have you built with Arduino?" videos on their website ;)
 
Regards,
Azrael

Check out my easy tutorial on how to add a metronome to your CDLC: Mute the original music, play only with the metronome and find out how good you really sound! Also: Find CDLCs that have the metronome enabled!

 

Want a USB-Footswitch that you can use to control the tone selection and all the menus in Rocksmith? Check out Rodman's Tutorial and my additions to that!  Footswitch_Logo.png

My CDLCs: Devin Townsend - Life, Deep Peace, Ih-Ah!, Deadhead; Farin Urlaub - Ok

My ideas for new features in Ignition, e.g. filters for Multitrack CDLC and Metronome CDLC.


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#11
Offline   Rodman

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@Azrael - Great job, man!

Thats the spirit!!!!!!

 

As stated above - i am waiting for a pic of your controller here!!!!!! ;)



#12
Offline   Azrael

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I already had a link to some pictures included, but I have put one into the post itself now, too :-)
(Can anyone tell me if there is a way to reduce the size of an image on this board?)

Check out my easy tutorial on how to add a metronome to your CDLC: Mute the original music, play only with the metronome and find out how good you really sound! Also: Find CDLCs that have the metronome enabled!

 

Want a USB-Footswitch that you can use to control the tone selection and all the menus in Rocksmith? Check out Rodman's Tutorial and my additions to that!  Footswitch_Logo.png

My CDLCs: Devin Townsend - Life, Deep Peace, Ih-Ah!, Deadhead; Farin Urlaub - Ok

My ideas for new features in Ignition, e.g. filters for Multitrack CDLC and Metronome CDLC.


#13
Offline   Rodman

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@Azrael

Beauty !!!

Wonderful work - congrats!!!!

Reduce picsize - best way i know is to use tinypic.com - upload resized - u get the direct link including /img


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#14
Offline   1o57

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The second I saw this thread I knew I was going to go spin a quick PCB for doing this with a cheap uController....

 

Stay tuned....



#15
Offline   Rodman

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The second I saw this thread I knew I was going to go spin a quick PCB for doing this with a cheap uController....

Stay tuned....


Just shout if you need any help!!!


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#16
Online   KingCobra

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I am so exited! I am (more or less) done with my very own Rocksmith Footswitch and it is AWESOME!
 

 

Just ordered the necessary hardware for this (I chose a Leonardo Pro Micro ATmega32U4, hope that works), should be here by the end of the week.

 

Do you mind sharing your source code to give me a head start?

 

Thanks :)



#17
Offline   Azrael

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@KingCobra

Actually I'm glad someone asked :)

 

Here is my latest .ino version:

https://dl.dropboxus...otswitch_08.ino

 

I have continued working on my program and now use it for other applications and games!
 

 

Sketch for a USB-controlled guitar footswitch with five buttons and LEDs
  - for the use in Rocksmith 2014
    * via USB keyboard emulation
  - for the use with AmpliTube 4
    * via MIDI signals
  - for the use in Reaper (Digital Audio Workstation)
    * via USB keyboard emulation (shortcuts assigned within Reaper)
  - for the use as a regular GamePad
    * HID library makes Windows recognize it

 

 

I also attached a volume pedal (by Ernie Ball) to the Arduino, specifically the pedal's potentiometer, to be able to send analog signals to the PC.

I use this for Window's volume control and scrolling inside Rocksmith. But the main purpose was to enable the control of virtual pedal boards in AmpliTube 4.

 

So... the program now has many more functions than you might need... or maybe you will like them, too! You can download a free trial version of AmpliTube 4, it works with the Rocksmith Cable.

 

If you have questions or suggestions for improvement, please let me know!


Check out my easy tutorial on how to add a metronome to your CDLC: Mute the original music, play only with the metronome and find out how good you really sound! Also: Find CDLCs that have the metronome enabled!

 

Want a USB-Footswitch that you can use to control the tone selection and all the menus in Rocksmith? Check out Rodman's Tutorial and my additions to that!  Footswitch_Logo.png

My CDLCs: Devin Townsend - Life, Deep Peace, Ih-Ah!, Deadhead; Farin Urlaub - Ok

My ideas for new features in Ignition, e.g. filters for Multitrack CDLC and Metronome CDLC.


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#18
Online   KingCobra

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@KingCobra

Actually I'm glad someone asked :)

 

If you have questions or suggestions for improvement, please let me know!

 

@Azrael

Thanks for this. I'll dig through the code at the weekend. Not sure when the pedal board will arrive though, hopefully before then. I was toying with the idea of adding a small led/oled display to allow for a basic menu. Not sure where it would fit, have you considered this?

 

Also, maybe you should consider creating you own thread.



#19
Offline   Azrael

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A friend of mine has some of those 2-line displays and once I toyed around with them to see if I could get them working. I did, and we even considered cutting the board up, but soon realized there was not enough space to fit it in...

You could make an external case and/or stick it to the backside of the board... but in the end I considered that to much effort. I know all the modes of my program and use the LEDs to give me hints where possible, so a display is not really necessary for me.

I did, however, integrate a lot of Serial.print() commands into the code. So you can pop up the serial printer and it shows you some of the stuff you would probably want to put on a display. Should help understand the functions ;-)


Check out my easy tutorial on how to add a metronome to your CDLC: Mute the original music, play only with the metronome and find out how good you really sound! Also: Find CDLCs that have the metronome enabled!

 

Want a USB-Footswitch that you can use to control the tone selection and all the menus in Rocksmith? Check out Rodman's Tutorial and my additions to that!  Footswitch_Logo.png

My CDLCs: Devin Townsend - Life, Deep Peace, Ih-Ah!, Deadhead; Farin Urlaub - Ok

My ideas for new features in Ignition, e.g. filters for Multitrack CDLC and Metronome CDLC.