Archie79

Just wanted to let everyone know that when I logged in to the site today I received a fake virus alert asking me to contact a toll free number. I just restarted chrome and it was fine and my computer is showing virus free. It's maybe only happened to me but just wanted to make people aware. This is the address that showed in the bar. http://13989x3422100-9853x311-virus.com/en/?id=MDgwMCAwNDggODg2Ng

I can understand using it for cinematic situations but I really don't see the point of it during game play. I tend to use blur during game play more depending on the situation. As a rule of thumb if I am playing games at 30 fps I will use blur to try and hide the frame rate issues. If I am playing at 60 fps then I will turn it off as the frame rate is much smoother. It's funny because when I play GTA V I use G-sync and can play a variable 45-70 fps which mostly makes the game look really good and I find no need for motion blur. But I tend to play it at a locked 30 fps with motion blur as I find 30 fps eliminates any micro stutter during game play and also fixes the stutter issue during cut-scenes. 

I have always wandered what the point in D of F is because like you are saying I have always thought that your own eyes will adjust to the given situation you are looking at. The only thing it does is perhaps hide poor graphics a bit better and also to blur scenes you don't want blurred. I understand what it is for but just seems pointless when your own eyes already do it for you.

I use D of F and a lot of other post processing effects in most games, especially if playing games at 30 fps and open world games. But when I play Rocksmith I can honestly say I think it is the worst implemented D of F I have come across. Usually you would expect it to give a blurry/out of focus effect for distant item or round the edge of the screen. But D of F on Rocksmith just blurs everything and since everything you are looking at is simulated to be immediately in front of you it looks wrong. Also when the menu changes it gives a weird frame blurring effect which is awful. I hoped they would change this in the remastered version but obviously not. 

I obviously have my own preferred tone which I made up in tone designer. And of course every time you go to play a different song it returns back to the default tone and you have to press whichever number you assigned your tone to activate it again. In most cases this isn't a big deal but in some songs that start really quickly you don't get enough time to change the tone and start playing. Is there anyway to change this to make your own custom tone as the default choice without having to go in to the toolkit and change every individual song? 

Thanks for the help. Never had to use the toolkit before as never ran into problems. But after I figured it out I was able to remove the bonus arrangements and now the tracks work perfectly.

I have ran a search but couldn't find anything about this. After running the repair for the 100% mastery bug, whenever I go to play songs with Bass bonus in the top left of the screen the crash the game. All other songs work fine. The Bass bonus songs in question worked fine before running the 100% mastery bug fix. Anyone else had this problem and know how to fix it?

UPDATE

I tried replacing one of the songs with the original file and that also crashes now. Some of the song are a hit or miss (sometimes crash, sometimes don't) other songs just crash all the time. 

Does anyone have any experience using either of these? I currently have the EBS ValveDrive DI preamp/pedal connected via my Eden E300 amp head. I am using it as a overdrive pedal rather than a preamp to get a tube effect drive sound. I have set it to give a flat response and only adjust the gain control and vintage control as I use my amp to achieve my desired sound. Only problem is that I find this pedal is a bit overpowering on the bass tones, especially on the low E string. I had to stop playing with my humbucker and move the switch to single coil as it was just too much but I wasn't happy with the overall sound. I have managed to kind of get round this by going back to my humbucker while using drive by adding a compressor pedal with attack and sustain turned down to minimum. I have been considering trying the Eden glowplug as this is purely used as a pedal and not preamp but I can find very little on it. Any advice welcome, thanks.  

Was just looking for some input on  other players preference, advice and experiences? I have used a wireless system in the past for my bass guitar. Although sound wise I didn't notice any difference in sound quality I did on occasions experience some interference. After about 1 year my system packed in and due to cash flow I reverted back to using my D'addario custom cable which delivers amazing sound quality with no interference. One difference I have made since using my wireless system is upgraded my patch cables for my pedals from D'Addario classic cables to custom cables. I know the custom cables have superior shielding so I don't really know how much difference it might have made to my wireless system regards interference? The one thing I hate about cables is that I am forever standing on them and pulling it out of my bass jack so I am considering buying a wireless system again. Does anyone have any recommendations or should I stick to cables? Unfortunately for the first time in my life I am faced with a very real prospect of being made redundant in the next 4-5 weeks so I wouldn't be looking to spend a mega amount of cash. I am very aware that you get what you pay for and I have always been lucky enough to be in a position to by good quality gear but I just can't justify it at the moment as I have other priorities at the moment so that is why I am asking if there are any good cheap wireless systems out there or better off sticking to cables until I am in a position to buy something of better quality? Thanks in advance for any replies/advice.

I normally get the fatigue when playing fast between 1 and 3 and 3 and 5 frets just because I have to really try and stretch my fingers. The force that is applied to the string with your finger I find can make a big difference. Since I have been making a point of only using the minimum required pressure I find I have less tension which enables me to play faster, move about easier and less fatigue. A short scale bass does sound slightly different due to the tension on each string being different from a full scale. They tend to sound a bit brighter. One way to get round this is to use a set of strings the next gauge up. But most people don't tend to mind the difference in tone and for some a brighter tone is maybe a good thing. Apart from the tonal difference there is no other real draw backs if you want to call it that. There are definitely more advantages than disadvantages from playing a short scale.

I would highly recommend a short scale bass. It certainly doesn't look child like lol. People don't seem to realize that a full scale bass is approx 9" longer than a regular guitar and that is a lot of extra distance to cover. A short scale bass (30 3/4") is still 5" longer than a normal guitar but they are so much easier to play that a full scale bass. They are a lot faster and easier to move your hands about on. I have a Hagstrom HB-4 short scale bass and a Schecter Stiletto Custom IV full scale which I have just put up for sale as I have just bought a new short scale bass which should arrive at the end of the month. I bought my new one from a guy who has started his own business who specifically deals in short scale bass guitars. He sells hand made custom design short scale bass guitars which cost approx £2000 GB and he also has started selling mass produced custom design ones for £340-£560 which is the one I have went for as they get an excellent review. He said he decided to start his business due to a lot of bass players having to play more complex songs and switching to a short scale because they are easier and faster to play but players are complaining that there isn't a great deal of professional quality short scale basses out there to choose from.

Thanks for sharing your experience. Kind of ties in with what I have been going through. My problem is I hate to quit lol so I just keep playing until I physically can't move my hand anymore. I suppose it's a bit like someone who runs 2 miles/day then decides to do 4 miles you are going to find it tough and you will be sore for a couple of days haha. I have kind of went off the boil a bit so to speak. Used to spend all my spare time playing but the last few months i haven't been playing the same and even thing's I used to find simple we're becoming a challenge again but being off work over the holiday period I have been playing more again and I can notice the difference in my playing again. It's true what they say......practice, practice, practice. I have just ordered a hand strengthener to see if this helps as it gets good reviews. I have to laugh because I know a lot of people that play guitar who try and wind me up and say bass players are just people who can't play "REAL" guitar. I am also lucky to have a friend who plays both who happily says that playing Bass is not "EASY" to play like people think and is more difficult in certain aspects and since playing Bass he found overall he has better rhythm/timing and also better technique as he finds you need to rely on better hand technique and better playing position/posture when playing bass.

Not sure if this is the right section to put this in but I thought it would be okay since it does happen while playing Rocksmith.

I mainly play Classic Rock, Rock, Hard Rock and some metal. I have recently switched to completely playing with a short scale Bass which has helped with my playing considerably as I was finding it a bit of a stretch and sometimes painful with a lot of paying at the high end of the neck. But something I can't fix is on the rare occasion when I play something fast (Guns 'N Roses, Slash, Metallica etc) I get forearm pain in my fretting arm. I think it is more fatigue rather than something more serious but was looking for others experience? To best describe it is rather than pain it is as if my arm starts to feel numb which eventually goes into my hand and if it is a long song it can lead to me struggling to grip anything. But after the song if I rest for 5 minutes i'm fine to play again and if it's a slower song I experience no problems whatsoever. Since I don't play fast on a regular basis I am just wondering if it is because my muscles aren't used to it and are just fatigued? Any Input welcome?

I know this is an old post and you probably have something by now but I too looked for headphones for ages that I liked. I hate cables on my earphones so I got something wireless. I will be honest I wasn't looking to spend serious cash on a top of the range pair as I only use them when my step daughter and fiancee are in the room and it stops them moaning. I ended up buying these  http://www.panasonic.com/in/consumer/audio-video/accessories/headphones/rp-wf950.html

Sure I know they aren't top of the range but they are at a reasonable price and do the job. If you stand to close to your amp you will get some interference noise but just step back a bit and they are fine. They give great sound and reception and the best thing I like I they are protected from sudden loud sounds and will either cut off if really excessive or they automatically adjusted to the sound a bit like a compressor.

I'm like a kid in a sweetie shop. I can't afford a tube amp and have made do with a solid state one and also use a boss OBD-3 overdrive pedal but it just didn't have that growl I wanted for old school Rock. I bought an EBS ValveDrive pedal which is basically a drive/preamp pedal powered with a valve tube. It is the bomb. It wasn't cheap, I paid about £250 which at a guess is about $375 but it is worth every penny. I have now turned my Eden solid state Bass amp in to a beast at the fraction of the cost. Would recommend this to any Bass player in a heartbeat and it is by far my best/favourite pedal.

I use a Boss CS-3 compression pedal. I used to use an Orange 100BXT bass amp which has no built in compression so that was straight forward. I have recently bought a Eden E300 mini stack. The amp has auto compression built into it but I still like to use my pedal along with it because I get sustain with my pedal and don't with the amp on it's own. Is this okay?

I have actually just put in a 5A fuse just now because if it draws 10A at 120V then it should only be 5A at 240V so in theory their shouldn't be any need to go higher. I will see how it goes, if it blows, it blows and I will just put in a 7A or 10A. For the sake of safety I don't see the point in going higher that is needed.

I contacted Eden today and they confirmed that the 3A fuse is not sufficient. They have said to use a 10A or 13A fuse because they are saying that it is the fuse in the Amp that is providing the protection, just as you are saying. I only have 13A fuses just now but I will buy some 10A fuses as I would prefer to use the lower rated one to edge on the side of caution. The US don't have fused cords the same as France hence what you are saying that in this case the plug fuse is really not important because it is the amp fuse providing the protection.

That's what I thought. But I guess for all the questions is that I obviously don't want to do anything that would risk damaging my amp. I know i'm not an isolated case as I read feed's last night with people having the same problem and that power cords have not been supplied with the correct fuse in the UK. Not sure if power cords are fused in the US or just the appliance but it does seem to be a common problem. Last question is, should I use the 5A fuse in the plug or get another 3A slow blow fuse?

Thanks for your input. I had assumed that there must have been a peak current while turning on/off hence why it has a slow blow fuse to allow for this. Bearing this in mind I then come to the conclusion that the peak current is too much for the regular 3A fuse in the power cord plug. Reading the manual I have found that the system will pull 10A at peak so this explains the plug fuse blowing all the time although the 10A figure is based on US 110v so because the UK uses 240v the peak Amps would be alot less. I guess what i'm asking is would it be better off putting the 5 A fuse in the plug to avoid it blowing due to the peak amps during the on/off periods?

I bought a brand new Eden bass mini stack about 2 weeks ago. I absolutely love it but for some reason I have now blown 2 fuses in the power cord (fuse in amp is fine) and don't know why? I am using the amp at a low volume and it only blows while turning the amp off/on and is fine while running. It states in the manual to use a 250v 3.15A slow blow fuse for the amp head which I can confirm is the one being used. Now the fuse in the power cord plug (which was supplied with the amp head) has a standard 3A fuse in it. Am I right in thinking this is the cause of the problem? I would have thought the fuse in the power cord should have been the same and because it is NOT a slow blow fuse this is why it happens? I spoke to a maintenance man I used to work with that said I should use a standard 5A fuse in the plug instead and not to use a slow blow fuse in the power cord plug as I risk serious damage. He openly says that he isn't 100% sure on this as he is from a mechanical background and not electrical. He said he will ask the electrical maintenace guy on Monday at work but until then just wanted to see if anyone else has experienced the same?

I seemed to have fixed the problem. I had also noticed that I was getting a scratching sound while adjusting my pickup blend pot which initially I thought might be caused by a poor ground on my guitar but to cut a long story short I have changed from using my wireless guitar system back to my my planet waves custom series cable on my guitar and all problems have gone.

I did think that was what was causing it and wandered if there was a way round it? My chain consists of my noise clamp (4 jack version) to which I use my OD pedal in the noise clamp loop then out of the noise clamp loop I have my Compression Sustainer then my amp. I then have my chorus pedal in the dedicated effects loop on my amp.

I can't really see much as everything is pretty well enclosed and I would prefer not to take it apart as it's only coming up for 1 year old and has a 2 year warranty on it, so don't want to void anything. It's an Orange Crush 100BXT amp that I have. As I said it works with all my pedals fine it's only when I add the noise clamp that I get the noise.

I have a problem that when I use my noise clamp every time I play my first note or start again from a pause I get a pop/thump sound, once i'm in full flow this goes away. It only does this when I use my noise clamp in conjunction with my OD pedal. I have tried my OD pedal without the noise clamp and it works fine so I know it is the noise clamp causing this. Any suggestions how to solve this? it's not a major problem but it is slightly annoying.