GetTheLedOut

There's a check box under the preferences pane for "note auto-adjust." Checking that should ensure that the notes move in conjunction with any changes you make to the beat map. Unless I'm mistaken, this is the reason for your troubles. Also, you can automatically grid snap all notes by selecting them with CTRL+A (or a series of notes with SHIFT+left click) and then pressing CTRL+SHIFT+R, which will snap them to the nearest value. You'll usually want to set the grid snap to 1/32 or 1/48 beforehand for better accuracy.

The way that the notes import depends on the location of the first beat in EoF, the BPM that you choose, and the way that your GP file is authored. The best way to sync the song with the music is by making sure that the beat markers are also in sync. You can do this by manually moving them in EoF, or using a tool like GoPlayAlong (which you must pay for) to automate the process a bit. In many cases, it's not as easy as setting the BPM one time, since a large number of songs do not have a consistent BPM. Which means you must adjust the beat markers every so often (usually every 1-2 measures). NOT THE NOTES. If you're new to making CDLCs, then you may want to check out the tutorials by Firekorn, PC Plum, or myself on how to sync your beat map.

Unfortunately, "Man in the Box" is an official DLC from Ubisoft, so you won't be able to release that here. Obviously, the same goes for any other songs that are available of official DLCs.

This is by far the easiest solution when the GP tracks do not overlap. In cases where they do overlap, or the lead guitar/guitar solo is on it's own track, then you can import to another EoF arrangement. REAL_GUITAR and REAL_GUITAR_22 are both pre-configured for guitar, the same goes for their bass counterparts. From there, just like in GP, you can copy/paste the notes in EoF from one arrangement to another. Just remember to also copy/paste any tech notes (pressing F4 will show you the tech notes). This often how you'll end up creating rhythm and lead arrangements for your CDLCs.

http://customsforge.com/topic/901-how-to-use-custom-dlcs-in-rs2014/

Read the FAQ.

It might be tough to find an answer, as only a very small percentage of people use a PS3 for their CDLCs. Hopefully someone can you help you out. I assume you've already searched the forums for similar threads?

Seems odd that it wouldn't work if the .wem file settings were the only things that were changed. Could you provide a link to the .psarc file so we can have a look?

You'll need to jailbreak the xbox and install custom firmware on it in order for CDLCs to work. That's the first step, and it's often a deal breaker because if it's not done correctly, you can brick the xbox.

@@ShrillBear52 That video doesn't show anything helpful, and the angle doesn't show the bend of your neck (like I asked). I'm sorry, but I'm done with the guitar set-up stuff, dude. I'd really love to help you, but clearly I can't. Perhaps someone else can. Either both of your guitars are complete pieces of crap, or you have trouble following directions. Or both. Just read and follow the tutorial that I've already linked you to multiple times. It's all there, I promise. Start at the beginning and finish at the end. Apparently, that's the best advice I can give you. I've spent SO MUCH time trying to help you with this across several threads, and it's gone nowhere. As for the EoF questions... you just need to define where the slide ends, because it's probably not specified in the guitar pro tab. There are two types of slides that Rocksmith supports: 1) pitched slides (EoF shortcut of CTRL+UP/DOWN) - where the note trail straightens out slightly, showing the the slide ends on a specific fret 2) un-pitched slides (EoF shortcut of CTRL+U) - with these slides, the note trail fades away and doesn't clearly indicate where the slide ends If pitched slides do not have an ending fret, you'll get that error message - it's pretty self-explanatory. You can fix them by using the above shortcuts and entering in a fret number. The error message about an "error in the ending position" is because the ending point of the slide doesn't make sense. For example, a note played at the 5th fret can have a slide down to the 7th fret, can it? This also applies to chords. For a downward slide, you must slide past the lowest fretted note, and vice versa for upward slides. The error messages keep popping up after you've fixed them because there are probably multiple slides that need to be fixed in the song. You can easily select and fix them all by clicking on the note and pressing SHIFT+L followed by the shortcut for a pitched or un-pitched slide (depending on which one you want). SHIFT+L selects all notes that are EXACTLY the same. If there are notes played on different frets whose slides need to be fixed, then just repeat this for those notes. As for DD, I'm really not the best person to answer that. I don't personally like DD myself (it's easier for me to learn by slowing the song down), so I just use the DDC tool in the toolkit so that others can use DD with my customs if they want. It works well enough the vast majority of us.

Lose the strings? Well that's intresting,i heard in a few videos that i have to leave the strings in tunning,in order to make the trus rod,and it will keep the settings,also i do not think i should lose te trus rod,I'll try to make another video for it,to see what i'M talking about. What I meant is that the tension of the strings may be causing the truss rod to be difficult to turn. You don't HAVE to loosen them in order to adjust the truss rod. I do, because I'd rather not cause the extra stress on my neck. Why do you think that you don't have to loosen the truss rod? What is the shape of your neck right now? Which way does it bend? I meant,for when you turn the hex key in it,you chould lose or tie the neck,i will show in another video in the morning what i'm talking about. You'll want to turn it to the left, or counter-clockwise if you are looking into the hole where the truss rod is. If you are going to take a video or a picture, it would be helpful if you use the same angle as the picture of your string height. Showing all the way from the nut to the bridge - and let us know if the video was taken before or after you've adjusted the truss rod.

Lose the strings? Well that's intresting,i heard in a few videos that i have to leave the strings in tunning,in order to make the trus rod,and it will keep the settings,also i do not think i should lose te trus rod,I'll try to make another video for it,to see what i'M talking about. What I meant is that the tension of the strings may be causing the truss rod to be difficult to turn. You don't HAVE to loosen them in order to adjust the truss rod. I do, because I'd rather not cause the extra stress on my neck. Why do you think that you don't have to loosen the truss rod? What is the shape of your neck right now? Which way does it bend?

It shouldn't be too hard to move, but as long as it's moving, you should be fine. Generally speaking it's a bad sign if the truss rod takes a lot of effort to adjust, but if it's a cheaper guitar, it might just be because of the build quality. My guess would be that it's nothing to worry about. Just make sure that you loosen the strings before adjusting the truss rod. The added pressure of the strings may be making it harder to turn. Once your neck and bridge are properly adjusted, then you can return your pickups to their normal height, and they won't be causing an buzzing.

He has said that all open strings buzz except for the B and high e strings. I seem to remember that he also said that his fingers would go under the others strings when bending. That's a pretty uncomfortable feeling :o

Thanks for providing some good pictures (those are pretty good for a phone) and the measurement. 2mm for the string height at the 12th fret is a good goal, but you must adjust your truss rod/neck straightness first. This is step 4 of the tutorial It looks like you may have only adjusted the bridge height in order get the string height at 2mm. It looks like your bridge is very high and is causing the strings to arc upward at a very steep angle. This is what is making bending uncomfortable for you at the higher frets. If your string is truly 2mm... and your bridge is that high... and you still have buzzing... it probably means that your neck is too straight and you'll need to loosen the truss rod. In fact your neck may even be bending backwards. I bet the strings are buzzing against the first frets, like your Strat. Therefore, start with step 4 of the tutorial, then work through the rest of it. You should always adjust the neck before you do anything else. Your neck should bend a VERY SMALL amount forward (away from you when standing) when the strings are fully tuned. Looking down the neck like this will help you see it. Once your neck isn't so straight, then you'll be able to lower the bridge and still have the string height at about 2mm at the 12th fret. The tutorial also talks about pickup height, yours look pretty low, but you can adjust this last.

@@ShrillBear52 I'm sorry if I let my frustrations get the best of me. I'm really trying to help, I hope that's been clear all the way through. If I had your guitar(s) in front of me, I could set them up for you - but obviously that's not possible. The next best thing is for me to show you how - which is what I'm trying to do. There's no shortcut to setting up a guitar. Everything must be done in order, which is why I keep pointing you back to that tutorial. There are probably a couple of things that are causing the buzzing, so there probably isn't one single solution.

There's a specific thread in the tutorials section for mac users. You may want to check that out.

You can see for your self,i tried to do the press the strings while play them open,not sure if you chould judge about it how i did it in the video(the stratocaster) in the other video i hope you can hear how to first 4 string are buzzing while open ,expct the B and high e,(the les paul) http://www.filedropper.com/mov0053 http://www.filedropper.com/mov0055 Well, that not what I meant at all. I meant this. In any case, it was pretty clear that your nut is cut VERY deep (on your "Stratocaster" from the factory. The strings are basically resting right on the first fret. That's where the buzzing is coming from. I can't see how much relief your neck has, but if it's too straight, it will only make much the buzzing worse. After following the tutorial completely, you may still find that you'll need a shim in your nut, or to have it replaced. The second video (your Les Paul) wasn't helpful at all. We would need to see the nut, the height of the strings at the 12th fret, and the height of your bridge (at both ends) to diagnose the problem. Since you think that the truss rod is broken on your strat, let's just focus on your Les Paul for now - one guitar at a time :) . Using the tutorial from a few posts back, follow and execute EACH step. Still doesn't seem like you've done this. If you still have questions AFTER FOLLOWING THE TUTORIAL, then start a new thread (this one was/is supposed to be focused on music theory) in the help section that includes very specific details, like measurements of the height of your strings at the 1st, 12th, and last frets (or pictures that show string height or neck straightness). Pictures like this, this, and this would be helpful. Did I mention to follow the tutorial first? Just making sure. :D

@@ShrillBear52 Does the buzzing stop when you press the string down behind the nut? If so, just install a string tree. Stratocasters usually have one on the two highest strings, but many people also put one on the D and G strings too. Also, if it's a cheap knock off (not a Fender) Strat, they might have done a crappy job of cutting the nut properly. I'd also recommend going through all of the steps in that tutorial, though. You could very well find that the nut is not the problem, because without detailed pictures or measurements, we can't say for sure. And you'll learn the process. With regard to the truss rod, you can usually make adjustments by turning it about one quarter turn at a time. So if you turn it more than a full turn or two without any changes to the measurements in your neck relief (see tutorial), then it's almost certainly broken.

Been playing with that software, it makes a HUGE difference! You can also use a low pass filter set to about 100-150Hz, which just filters out everything above those frequencies. Works well for me when I'm trying to transcribe bass parts.

Did you not watch the numerous videos and/or read the tutorials that we sent to you? It might make more sense to resume things in your original thread. I'm really not trying to be rude. It's just rather frustrating that multiple people have tried to help you with this subject, in multiple threads, and it seems like you haven't taken the time to learn from the materials we've provided you. Instead you keep asking questions that are answered in the tutorials that we provided. It's not that difficult to set up a guitar, but there are several steps, that need to be done in order because they affect one another. The principles are exactly the same, no matter the type of guitar. The hardware is just slightly different. Again, I really think this tutorial will help you - http://www.samash.com/help/library/main/How_to_Set_Up_an_Electric_Guitar.html PLEASE, read through each step, starting at step # 4. If you have questions, on any of the steps, just let us know.

It worked fine for me. Here's the GP5 tab: https://www.dropbox.com/s/4tqynmd38ls8iqj/Breaking%20Benjamin%20-%20Skin%20v.1.gp5?dl=0

This would be my best guess too. The latest version of the Toolkit will give you a prompt when you generate a package, asking if you want to update the package ID, etc. Clicking yes should ensure that the scroll speed gets updated to whatever new value you've chosen. Changing the ID manually would accomplish the same thing. As always, I could be wrong :D

The mostly likely reason is that your guitar's intonation is slightly off. It's quite easy to check/fix though. Using a tuner, tune each string as you normally would, but then also place your finger at the 12th fret and play that note. The notes at the 12th fret should be EXACTLY an octave higher - i.e. they should still be EADGBe in standard tuning. Your guitar most likely has individually adjustable saddles at the bridge, and they're adjustable for exactly this purpose. If the note at 12th fret is sharp, then move the bridge saddle back until it's in tune, and vice versa. Just note that each time you move the bridge saddle you'll also want to re-tune the open stringed note again, before checking the tuning of the fretted note. Once both the open and 12th fret notes are in tune, move on to the next string. I hope that makes sense, but just let me know if you'd like clarification on anything. There certainly plenty of guitar intonation tutorials floating around online, as well.

The easiest thing to do would be to author the first measure with a three beat rest before the anacrusis, or just change the time signature to 1/4.