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Well,yesterday i went to the guitar store for Veronika(that's how i call this guitar)and it just needed to set a little bit in the neck,because it's not avarage strings what i use now on this guitar.Also no i have this Dunlop(string cleaner)to clean up the strings after many playing.But there is one thing i don't understand even now.When i restringd the guitar with the gauge string it had noises when i playd it and i saw this 'thing ' on many video (i don't know how's it call)they do this to stay the guitar in tune or what.I did this but it still had the noises so i leaved,because i had to go my grandma to Szigetvár and when i returned to home and playd the guita,only the D string had noises but the others seemd pefect.If somone have any ideas how was this please write to me! :) If you have a buzz sound on a string that means your action is too low.(sometimes new strings do that anyway tough if you immediatly play after a restring, until they are a bit settled) But if the buzz sound stays it's because of the action. Wich is essentially your string that is too close to the neck when you fret. So when you fret and play a note, the string touches one of the frets, you should be able to see that. You can easily change that by raising the saddle of the string on your bridge. This might help you understand it a bit better: http://www.guitarrepairbench.com/electric-guitar-repairs/adjust_action_electric_guitar.html

Ah nice. Feel free to update us on what the problem was, I'm curious. Could be just too much stress on the e-string for some reason. maybe they will adjust the neck truss rod or the bridge (if it's a floating bridge)

Hmmm. I usually buy the regular slinky ones and never really had problems with them. They usually last quite a while for me.

Sound like an action-issue, aka your strings touching the frets. You'll probably have to raise your bridge saddles for that. Are you using different strings than usually? Also, do you cut off the strings immediatly after a restring? I usually let them settle a bit before doing that because I had a few times the e-string just breaks when I do that immediatly after a restring. Anyway, if it really happens a lot, just go for a bit thicker strings. I usually put .10 on my guitar for that reason and they usually last a bit longer.

Depends on how much time you want to spend on it. You'll have to use the RS Toolkit to extract the cdlc. Then use Wwise to decode the audio, pitch it up to E standard with Audacity, re-encode it again with Wwise and put the cdlc back together with RS Toolkit (and change the guitar part to E standard tuning). If you have a lot of cdlc in different tunings that you want to play, you might want to consider buying a drop tuning pedal.

I have the same problem whenever I use an image from a steam screenshot

True. I did it like that because I used an original tab where it was written with grace notes. If I knew the converting process had problems like this I probably wouldn't have done it. But too late for that now. Not really the place to ask this, but if you know. Is there a reason why a bend would be noted with a grace note on beat before the regular note? I tought it was to show the general timing of the bend but I have the feeling I don't fully grasp this and it's just a notation convention used.

So I'm guessing you mean the note on the first beat as a tie note does not take the "grace note on beat" as a real note and therefore gives the error? Because when I look at the file I see the grace note with the tied note after it. I'm guessing there went something wrong with that part when I converted it from gp6 because all the other similar notes have the 'tied note' tag removed. I noticed there went a lot wrong with the converted file now. bends that where removed and got a wrong note. I did not know gp6 had so many troubles converting these to gp5, some parts where converted properly, but some parts are just off, even tough they are exactly the same.

EOF constantly crashes when I try to import this gp5 file. First time I have problems importing a file, and I checked with a different song I'm working on and that file imported just fine. While making the post I was testing a few things and I think it's because I am using Grace Notes On the beat. I changed a part to Grace Notes Before the beat and was able to load that file without a problem. Any idea if this can be fixed? Or should I just use the Grace Notes Before the beat and adjust everything in EOF later? Link to the files https://www.dropbox.com/sh/t07eylrheo2z53s/AAAH6SUDHCSYuCmpykTYBYmKa?dl=0

Ah I see. Still, that's most likely just the screen and a cable. With most screens going under $100 and a cable (won't be that much) it's weird they asked $200. Well..at least in my opinion. But I think most computer repair shops usually ask way too much for the effort. Last time I went to a repair shop in my town my old laptop screen cable was broken in the hinges by closing/opening the lid so much. They where already letting me believe that it was going to cost too much money to repair since it was an old laptop. So I took the laptop back home with me, ordered a cable for the screen for less than $10 and fixed it myself 2 days later. Same with a different laptop where just the HDD was broken. Just took it back with me (when they told me it was going to take more than a week and like $100-150) and ordered a new HDD for $50 (wich took 5min to swap) and fixed it the day later myself. So now I just try to fix everything myself first, while learning new things everytime, wich is nice. If you are curious, just look at how easy it is to replace a screen https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHKQK-CXIto

@@peteh $200 just to replace a screen sounds way too much for a $275 laptop. Screens can cost up to $150 but I highly doubt they put a screen like that in a $275 laptop. Usually those screens are around $75 range (wich they probably even get cheaper as a store), even with labor cost you shouldn't get to $200, it takes like 10minutes to switch out a screen. Can't say much about the design flaw, but if you have it for 2 years without any problem. Then I doubt it is there. ....was browsing a few things and I'm guessing it's a Toshiba Sattelite model? http://topclassactions.com/lawsuit-settlements/lawsuit-news/612-claim-up-to-225-in-the-toshiba-satellite-broken-hinge-class-action-settlement/ Not sure if you bought the laptop at the same place you went for the repair, but either they sold you a product knowing it was faulty, or it's an updated model with the flaw fixed (wich is more likely since you presumably bought it 3 years later this article came out). wether or not it's worth to replace the screen depends on a few things, but the price they asked seems fishy. Sounds like they where eager to just sell you a new laptop and probably take your old laptop out of your hands for free. PS: I hope you didn't get another Toshiba laptop as the company already "covered" up several problems with their laptops from what I found over the internet

And I'm not sure since I don't have your specs. But if it's just the screen that's broken, then I don't see why they told you that it's not worth fixing, unless it's a really old laptop or maybe a mac. But for most laptops you can buy a replacement screen fairly cheap(depends on the laptop tough) and it's really not hard to replace.

Sooo I'm guessing you are on a laptop then I'm not 100% sure how the saving works to be honest, but I it's either steam or uplay that saves the progression. What I have noticed from making cdlc is that the game links an id to your cdlc's. So I think if you have your saves it should recognise the cdlc's again and show the proper progress. But there's probably someone more qualified here to answer this

Well, if we don't know what the problem is with the pc we can't really help you that much. Either you add the hard disk to your new pc, buy an external case to use it as an external hdd. Or use a boot-usb with, for example, Ubuntu so you can load the OS and access your data. But if they told you the pc isn't worth fixing it would surprise me if you could even get to your data with a boot-usb. So I think your best bet is the first or second option depending if you have room in your new pc.

You can easily change the plug if you are willing to do some soldering, wich really isn't hard and you can get a solder iron pretty cheap. And usually it's just the connection of the wires or a bend in the wires near the plug so most likely you don't even need to change the plug but just resolder them. Saved me a lot of money from having to buy new guitar cables :D

If you have rocksmith, why would you ever go back to games like that? I had a friend falling victim to this. He played guitar hero like crazy for probably more than a year, and he was pretty good at it. Imagine if he spend all that time actually playing a real guitar/rocksmith :D The funny thing is, he actually has a real guitar. Not that he was good at playing it, but still. I don't get why people would want to learn a game over the real deal. It wouldn't surprise me if he was well above 1k hours playtime on guitar hero.

Thanks it worked now. I was thinking of doing something similar like that. But since I would have to adjust it for every page anyway I'll probably just stick with coloring notes myself, I'll probably learn a bit more with that method than just using an overlay

I'd say it was understandable if it was a new IP. But to have these flaws in a sixth version, you have to pay a good amount of money for. And I don't really have a problem with the standard notation itself but the dissonance between the standard notation and the guitar tab (basically what I showed in the last post)

You don't have to pay a lot for a descent guitar. I'm using a cort g254, wich was about $300 when I bought it like 4 years ago and does the job just fine. I would say you can find a descent one within the $300-500 price range. Even if you only play rocksmith I think it's worth the investment. Cheap $100 guitars are usually not that good, but fine when you just get started and don't know if you want to stick to playing guitar.

I know but most of the 'official' guitar tabblature I have from artists/songs/lessons actually have bends in the classical notation. So it is kind of weird to me that this option is not in a program that is specifically made for guitar tabs. And I know you can actually toggle a bend notation in GP6. But when you actually want a proper notation with the note you bend to in the classical notation you are stuck with the note showing up in the guitar tab, wich just makes it confusing in my opinion. Unless there is an option I'm missing to hide a note without tying it to the previous one? Because with that method it looks like the picture below. Wich I would be ok with for classical notation, but like I said, the note showing up in the guitar tab just makes it confusing. It looks most solid for the classical notation tough. I guess I could use a ghost note for the 13th fret, but that also just makes it sound weird and doesn't seem to work that well with very fast bends (like the left one) and just looks confusing to me. regular With Hold bend (Not sure why when I use a hold bend it even shows a bend again on the 2nd note. )

@@Frack The images don't seem to load for me

Yup I'm using the plugin but I changed the colors to the correct pattern he linked to, because some of them where off. The Chroma-notes program looks very pricy for what it does. I don't think it offers a lot more than what you can do in MuseScore for free, as it looks like it also has no guitar support. Also looks like the color sheme is tied to chroma scale so probably no customisation there. The only problem with, for example MuseScore, is that the with most tabs (for guitar) there seems to be no benefit of completely copying a tab and having to deal with the limitations, compared to just going into a paint program and color the notes one by one on the original tab. It's an ok program for making some basic lessons etc but besides that it feels too limiting for guitar tabs.

Anyone know a tabblature program for guitar or plugin that gives you the option to color in notes? (specifically, use a custom colors for every note) Currently I'm using MuseScore 2 to do this but the problem is, making tabblature and importing from guitar pro is not optimal, as it's not a program for guitar tabblature so it's missing several guitar techniques. And afterwards editing every note with color myself is fairly tedious. So if anyone would know a program that can do this I would greatly appreciate it. Example of what I would like

@@BHMath Thanks. Yeah that's a good workaround. Shame there is no option to change that otherwhise tough. I don't really like how the note notation doesn't change with the bend either (as in, it's not showing the note being bend to but stays the note the bend starts on). Any idea if there is a setting for that you can change in guitarpro?

I'm not finding any info on this anywhere so tought I would ask here. Is there a reason why the bend notation (curved bend line) gets stretched out to the next note? In the example: highlighted note on11th fret on b string. I would like to make it show the bend length instead of looking like the bend ends on the end right before the next note. Wich brings me to another question. From watching a youtube video, the bend window should show segments of the beat when it's a long bend/has tied notes like in the example below (from the video). I assume the bend above should have similar vertical sections as the example below? Or am I just missing something here? This is what it looks like for me