How would we create the CDLCs of his songs without having the tabs? Do you have any ideas?

In my old SG the strings where really easy to bend, and in a friend's Les Paul it is much easier to bend them than in my Les Paul, which I find very weird.

I have tried adjusting the action height, but that didn't help at all, so that's why I'm coming to you guys, any ideas of what can it be?

This was my first guitar that I bought at a second hand store. It's very light and I like the way it feels. I use it mainly for Drop D and lower tunings. It's an Epihphone Special SG.

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g34/jshaw0705/IMG_0563_zps70c572b9.jpg

I am 35 years old. As such when I was in high school every guitar player and lead singer that you dreamed of being played one of these. I had to have one! I understand that over the years they are pretty much all the same but that wasn't going to do it for me. I had to have an era correct one. I hunted and hunted and finally came across this heavily used, but plays perfect '99 MIM Fender Stratocaster. 

Found it on Craigslist and had the guy email me the serial number. As soon as I had it confirmed by Fender for year and such, I headed out to get it. 2 hours. I am thrilled to own it though! Totally worth the drive.

http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g34/jshaw0705/IMG_0564_zps01d5e2ea.jpg

I got it used from Guitar Center, which in itself is a miracle because this thing has been impossible for me to find (without paying $1,300) otherwise. Everything plays beautifully, and I'm ecstatic that it's here- the only thing is that it has a little scuff mark on its side, close to where you'd insert the cable. It doesn't look like a regular scratch and is gray in color, so I was wondering:

A) What might have caused this?
B) Is it repairable?

It's not a significant nor very visible scuff, so I can totally live without fixing it, but I was wondering if anyone knew of any methods to clear it up. Thanks!

Will make this short just to start, can provide more info if needed. Had a bunch of parts from doing upgrades and decided to see what I could make. Found 2 designs on thingiverse by user "Aitor pmr". Liked the look of his first design and the construction of his second soooo, I merged them. In short took the top of the first and added it to the middle and bottom of the second. After 6 days and just over a spool of filament I ended up with this.

As there is a file size limit, I won't bore you all with the evaluation but will give a tease as it is mostly done. Little quirks, some cosmetic things but working and sounds really good with 80's hair metal 😄

My first Marshall, AHHHHH I'm stoked 🤘

I've read a few bad reviews saying the preset tones aren't great.. I played a Code50 at GC a while back and was pleasantly surprised how great it sounded. Seems everyone is a snobby tube amp purist nowadays. 

Anyone have a Marshall Code amp? What do you think?

ok...

finally i drew a diagram of my setup; i got asked a lot about using real amp and how to get that mixed with the Rocksmith sound, so here is how i do it

Guitar or Bass is connected to Input  of the
Bigshot ABY (100€)
-- Output A - RS Cable to USB of PC
-- Output B goes to Input of a
Cheap ABY Switch (30€)
-- Output A - Input of Line 6 Spider IV Guitar Amp (110€) with Line6 FBV Express MKII Floorboard (100€) or a Bass Amp with LineOut (!) (100€) - as i am using the bass amp rarely cause the Z24 has bass amp modulation i switch between guitar and bass manually by plugging when needed or i already did set it up with switches i don´´t remember lol - lineout of amp goes to Digitech Trio+ Pedal with Footswitch (300€) - all in one Band Creator, you play a guitar sequence, it plays bass and drums, best pedal on earth - that goes to Input 1 of...
-- Output B goes straight to Input 2 of...

... ZOOM R24 hardware mixer/recorder (used 220€) - LineOut to LineIn of
Audiocard of PC - Lineout goes to
Audio Receiver - to
-- 5.1 Audio Speakers or
-- Headphones

Why?
1) I don´t like the RS tones and i don´t like any any any lag - i have my amptones mixed in perfectly and can use the footswitch of the amp for switching amp modes, volume control and Wah. The Guitar Tone in RS is muted (mixer) and as the tone of the amp goes to linein of Pc after the Mixer I have one Output signal to my speakers 😉
2) Full and absolute volume Control: I don´t like unmatching volumes. Guitar Volume can be instantly controlled by the volumeswitches on the Zoom and/or the foot pedal of the amp. If songvolume is too low/high, that can be instantly controlled over the audio receivers switch. I never have to enter any damn menu or use my mouse for that.
3) i can always and instantly record my played guitar playing by just pressing record on input 1 on the Zoom for Amp audio od pressing record on input 2 on Zoom for the dry un-amped signal, or record the mixed signal with RS - audio by pressing record on the PC.
4) Absolutely no setupchange required when playing disconnected just over the amp. I always just turn power on, plug the instrumentcable into guitar and play.
5) I am a fan of Hardware-Recording. i tried with multiple Software DAWs but that makes it all very complicated for me. So i ended up with the Zoom R24 that features unlimited projects, 24 track recording, amps and effects for guitar, bass and voice, a drum computer and mastering. I have got my also my keyboard, a vocal mic, a instrument mic for cajones/flutes/harp/ocarinas or whatever of the instruments i can play even less than guitar to have a lot of fun with my kids or alone. It´s also connected to my PC via USB so i can quickly import eg Ultimate Guitar background tracks to record my guitar line over that, or just a drumtrack or vice versa.
6) If i need to me quiet i can have all of the above via headphones by plugging those into the Audio Receiver, no setup needed
7) For what it does it´s relatively cheap, given the fact that you already own headphones and speakers and a PC with line-in and your instrument(s) the above was about 1k€ for me, you can pass on the Trio+, go for a ZoomR8 or R16 and only a bass or guitar amp with line-out (!) and pass on the floorboard and will be at 400-500$/€

That´s my setup grown over 9 years of RS, if anybody needs setup help (also the windows soundcard settings to get the mix sent to lineout) or tips or has a tip for improvement just shout.

Rod.

Since it seems to be known that the digitech drop doesn't like bass as much, I'm curious if someone has used Reaper or some other software based scale changing as I only have one bass and it would be nice to be able to flip between the tunings quickly without necessarily needing to re-tune.

Any suggestions? (other than getting another bass and I'm working on it. 🙂

-b

Specifically, with Rocksmith, and preferably with a bass signal?

I currently use a Y-cable to split my signal between my amp, and PC (well, Mac), but obviously I have no real control on the volume to the two, because Rocksmith likes full volume, and my amp (well, my neighbour) doesn't... ;)

does someone know if its possible to use the Boss Katana USB-Out to get a connection to Rocksmith?

I cant get it to work.... :(

I used the forum-search, but couldnt find something helpful.

Sorry for my english, im no native speaker.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Jondo

It works great , I just plug my bass into the split for input . Output plug in the realtone cable and bass amp. BTW I love the look of the packaging and splitter itself.

So these deals require you use the links below. The sale is encoded in the link. Fender won't allow them to advertise prices below MAP or Minimum Advertised Price. But they can offer sales below that, provided they don't advertise them. What that basically means is that if you do a search on their website the sale price will be much higher. But use their special link that they don't make public, and you save big.

The sale is for the items shown. You don't get to pick other colors, models, etc. 

I am also providing the link to where I found out about the deals (SlickDeals) below. Technically I found out about this on a forum called TalkBass, but SlickDeals is where that person found out about these deals.

Lets start with the Basses since that is what I play:

Fender Player P-Bass in 2-Color Sunburst (what I bought) $399: 

https://www.adorama.com/fe146103532.html?sdtid=12654085&emailprice=t&utm_medium=Affiliate&utm_source=rflaid62905

Fender Player J-Bass in 2-Color Sunburst$399:
https://www.adorama.com/fe146203532.html?sdtid=12654085&emailprice=t&utm_medium=Affiliate&utm_source=rflaid62905

They have a Mustang Bass in Sea Foam Green for $399 too but that is short scale and I am pretty sure those have note detection issues with Rocksmith. That can be found here: https://slickdeals.net/f/12411784-fender-limited-edition-mustang-bass-pj-electric-guitar-399-free-s-h?src=SiteSearchV2_SearchBarV2Algo

Now for the 6 Strings:

Fender Player Strat in 2-Color Sunburst $399: 
https://slickdeals.net/f/12602446-fender-standard-stratocaster-hss-electric-guitar-brown-sunburst-399-free-s-h?src=SiteSearchV2_SearchBarV2Algo

They have short scale duo sonics (beware of tone detection issues with short scales), and accoustic stuff. New stuff gets listed a couple times a week on SlickDeals. 

Here is a link that I bookmarked. I have it looking for Fender, at specific stores, and listed with the newest posts first. You can edit those settings and then bookmark it yourself:
https://slickdeals.net/newsearch.php?q=fender&pp=20&sort=newest&forumid%5B%5D=71&forumid%5B%5D=25&forumid%5B%5D=30&forumid%5B%5D=9&forumid%5B%5D=54&src=SearchBarV2

Note: They have open box Fender American Stuff starting at $999. Too rich for my blood. But that is $500 below retail so it is worth mentioning.

Again, I swear I am not making anything off this. I just figured you would appreciate it. I know I was beyond stoked when I found out about this.

Here is what I ordered:

I understand the first have a coloured sound, while the studio monitors have a plain sound that reflects the actual studio appearance of the music you hear. The same ive read many times that on average studio monitors are considered by most an unpleasant way to hear music, and as in Rocksmith you get everything mixed thats what you are doing.

Let leave aside for a momment the different purpose of each one.

My question is, should i compare the 500 watt rms of the Logitech Z906 with the 100watt to 300watt you would get out of near field studio monitors you can get without stretching your money too far away from the 250 bucks it takes to get the Logitech Z906.

Because i have a Line 6 112 of 75watt 12" amp and it could crush to bits the logitech speakers.

Should i give special significance to the diameter of the speakers above watt considerations.

What about the SOUND QUALITY, does the engineering of an studio monitor provide better sound quality per watt than a good set of pc speakers, or even than HIFI speakers like those speakers towers used to hear music or for expensive home cinemas sets.

In short. If you get let say a pair of Yamaha HS-5 and a set of Logitech Z906 and you try Rocksmith 2014 remastered with your guitar. Which one will i probably want to keep, and which one will i return to the shop. (Ive heard these week the Pioneer DM-40 and did not like them too much)

Links to the logitechs and to monitors not far away from their price range when you buy a pair:

https://www.logitech.com/es-es/product/speaker-system-z906

Yamaha HS-5

https://usa.yamaha.com/products/proaudio/speakers/hs_series/specs.html#product-tabs

Other studio monitors in the range:

JBL 305P MKII

http://www.jblpro.com/www/products/recording-broadcast/3-series-mkii/305p-mkii#.XI5BkChKjb0

KRK RP5 RoKit G3

http://www.krksys.com/Studio-Monitors/ROKIT-5-G3

Behringer Nekkst K8

http://www.musictribe.com/Categories/Behringer/Loudspeaker-Systems/Studio-Monitoring/K8/p/P0AZU

M-Audio BX8 D3

https://m-audio.com/bx8d3

I am about to buy my first electric guitar, after playing Rocksmith for the last half year with my western acoustic guitar that I own since 10 years or so.

Today I went to a shop, spent a while playing some guitars and I felt like my favourite was a "Gibson LPJ 2014 fireburst satin".

To be honest I couldn't hear a big difference between the LPs and Strats I played, and in terms of ease of playing they all felt good as well... but I really liked the "non-sticky" neck and looks of this one.

Any comments or experience with this guitar? :-)

At the moment I am not planing to buy an amp, because I will always play with headphones and thought that I can just do that through RS. Furthermore I will probably be able to get an acoustic amplifier from a family member for free together with a distortion pedal.

Basically I am wondering if this is a stupid plan and if I am missing a lot if I don't buy an amp...

I just backed this project https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/edgetechlabs/fret-zealot-play-bass-in-60-seconds.  They also have a guitar version that has already been released.

It would be very cool for some level of integration with Rocksmith.   I have not used the product but they indicate that colors are customized so they could be matched to Rocksmith.  

There is an SDK for both Android and IOS here:  https://github.com/edgetechlabs

From the FAQ:

"All popular (or even marginally popular) songs exist in freely-available MIDI files, so we can display any of the tabs (on Fret Zealot of course) that you find on tablature (tabs) websites. You can also upload or create your own tabs. You can rate each tab so that you and other users can find the best tabs for various songs. We guarantee you will not feel limited by the selection of songs in the app :-)."

I know about exporting RS to Tab tools. 

I'm happy to help but I don't have hardware yet.

I don't want you to just tell us though .. I want to know why you like it. Is it the feel, the sound, the wood, does it hold a special place in your heart?

I have two, I have a Gibson SG (my first) and was lusting after a Fender Stratocaster. Growing up the guys I went and saw live all played them. I am a child of the 90's after all. I have recently purchased one and am not sure that I prefer it to my Gibson. I like the way it feels but it very heavy compared to my SG and I don't like I like the floating bridge. Only time will tell.

What's your favorite?

• KEYBOARD INTERFACE – works as standard Keyboard – no special drivers, software or hacks needed
• PLUG AND PLAY for Windows and Mac
• USB or BLUETOOTH ver. available.
• EASY TO BUILD - ONLY 5 Wires to SOLDER
• CHEAP
• INGAME TONESWITCH everywhere (LAS, SA, SESSION MODE, MENU….)

http://i59.tinypic.com/29o51jd.jpg
You want one of those –
Here is the DIY HOW TO:

Needed:

• 4 Button Floorboard of your choice (no matter what connector it has) (20€ +)
• A USB or BT Keyboard (use an old or get a defective one (Keys 1,2,3,4 gotta be working) (0-25€)
• Soldering stuff incl.
• 5 thin wires (e.g. an old IDE Cable)
• Multimeter (optional but makes it easier)
• A screwdriver
• Gaffer Tape
• A textmarker (for cd labeling)

http://i62.tinypic.com/390xy.jpg
Difficulty: easy

• If you have sucessfully soldered anything before – you´re gonna do it for sure
• If you have never soldered anything before – thats a rather easy task to start off

Time:
A few hours or less (my second version was done from scratch in 30 mins)


So here we go!
Grab your Keyboard (The HP one i used has a small interface that will fit in almost any footswitch, a long enough cable and a matrix that is easy to follow – hence the used button wiring is easy to determine).

-Unscrew and open it.

http://i58.tinypic.com/f00ua0.jpg

As in my pics below mark the buttons 1-4 (not on numpad) .
When you lift the rubber layer you see the wiring matrix.
Short explanation of keyboard function: 2 matrixes with wires – when pressed together = 2 pins on the interface board are connected and thats the buttons signal.
So – mark the buttons you wanna use on both layers of the matrix (waterproof marker for cd labeling works good)

Optional: if you have extra switches on the floorboard you might wanna use extra keys like: Enter, Esc, Up, Down – if so – mark them too!
http://i57.tinypic.com/eq1htt.jpg

Now for the hardest (not really) part:
Go to Button 1 and follow the wires (white lines) on both matrixes to the interface board. Double check, you can follow them with different color textmarkerst to make sure, but that shouldnt be needed, and is way too professional for my way of doing stuff like that ;)
Now you should have found the two pins on the interface board that handle „1“
(Alternative: search gxxgle for schematics / pinout dor your specific keyboard)
To test:

- I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR DAMAGED HARDWARE OF YOURS -

Connect the usb plug to your computer, open a texteditor and shortcut the two pins that you have marked on the interface board – best with a multimeter set to resistance (ohm). Alt: use a piece of cable.
If everything is right – the text editor says: 1 – aint that great !

Now go on – follow the wires of button 2, 3 and 4 (and the extra buttons you might want)
It is very probable that you find a common ground for 1-4, so you should have five pins marked (i call em 1-4 and 0).
If there is no common ground = 8 pins determined (2 for each key) - no problem - read below!

http://i57.tinypic.com/10cixk5.jpg

Test all buttons the way above and if everything is ok you are ready to:
OPEN THE FLOORBOARD:


http://i60.tinypic.com/w7cs34.jpg
The board is gonna look a bit different for you unless you have the same 1st gen line 6 fb to work on...
Nevertheless - what you are searching for are the two pins for each buttons that are connected by a press on the button. The easiest way to find those is using a multimeter set to resistance (ohm) - adress 2 suspected pins - press the button and if the number on screen goes to 0 - these are the 2 pins to solder!

Furthermore: Check if there is a common ground (connection) between the individual buttons with the multimeter ("0" on screen means pins are connected and hence only one of them has to be wired to the ground of the keyboard interface)...
This is very probable, however if not (no "common ground" on fb board) you have 2 options:
#1 (recomended) connect one of the "to solder" pins of each button by soldering with the next one so only one of them has to be wired to "0" on keyboard interface. (see schematic diag 2)
#2 connect one of the "to solder" pins of each button by soldering with common ground of the keyboard interface - that way 8 wires to be soldered from kb interface to fbboard instead of 5.

If there is no "common ground" on kb interface, but you find 2 different pins for each key 1-4 just solder the 2 pins to the 2 pins of the fitting button in the floorboard board - in this cas you need to solder 8 wires (no problem)

If you have problems at any point pm me, post a pic of your situation, believe me - it is not gonna be so hard, i´m gonna help you.

When you are done you have:
- The pins on the floorboard to be wired
- the according pins on the keyboard interface sending "1" - "4"

WIRING
Solder the according pins (there are excellent youtube vids how to solder if you never have)

@@Frack 's little tips for this :

>>The parallels contacts material you'll solder is copper covered with a carbon like stuff.
you can remove this carbon by using the FLAT part of one screwdriver or a blade, take care to don't scratch the copper though.
This carbon is a pain in the a.. to solder (try on one unused contact first) go very gently with several passes.

Once the copper is visible & clean put some solder in it, the differents parallels contacts
should not be short circuited, if it happends, heat the solder along the copper to minimise the quantity.

put some solder on the end of the wires & heat both when in contact, blow on it to accelerate the cooler process.

take care to not overheat the board or the added wires (as they are very thin) any telecom/computer wire is ok for this.<<

If you look at my pics you can see that i did some scratching on the kb interface pins, put some solder on and got a nice result with that.

Here a principal schematic diagram:
http://i62.tinypic.com/2wlsd8n.jpg
The black dots are the common ground on the fb board = they show a resistance of zero when tested against each other - hence only one of them has to be wired to common ground on keyboard interface.

Schematic diagram 2 (no common ground on fb board)
http://i58.tinypic.com/3008jk1.jpg
connect pins 1-4 by soldering and check with multimeter(ohm): pin 1 against 4: = zero = success

Schematic diagram 3 (no common ground on keyboard interface):
http://i62.tinypic.com/2568gns.jpg
so if you found 2 pins for each key 1-4 (instead of 1 for each and a common ground = 5) you gotta solder 8 wires instead of 5 as shown above, meaning that the pins with the same color on kb int connected = keypress.


http://i62.tinypic.com/2bd0yx.jpg

http://i59.tinypic.com/rqyk4w.jpg

http://i60.tinypic.com/wsehg.jpg

http://i59.tinypic.com/2ahytfp.jpg
http://i60.tinypic.com/2po9icz.jpg

finally -
http://i57.tinypic.com/n133gp.jpg


TESTING
Plug in to USB on PC/Mac or connect with bluetooth -
http://i57.tinypic.com/25yuq85.jpg
start text editor, press the buttons - when you get:
http://i61.tinypic.com/hvnrx0.jpg
you might have to recheck :)

if you get:
http://i61.tinypic.com/2lw8y81.jpg
it´s good

If a button press results in multiple inputs (e.g. you press Button 1 and "134" is the output)
This is most probably a result of the conections on the board. If you don´t want to go into detail of the wiring of your board you might have to do the following:
http://i62.tinypic.com/ay1du.jpg
Just cut the lines leading away from your "to solder" pins with a flat screwdriver for each button.
This stops the fb from working with the amp it was designed for, but it can be rewinded by a simple solder point easily if ever needed.

Test again!



FINISHING

!!!!!!!UNPLUG!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Fit the keyboard interface into your fb, make sure there is no short circuiting (easiest way - cover whole thing with gaffer tape !!!)
http://i59.tinypic.com/1fhd8p.jpg
please take a little more time than i obviously did here :)

http://i61.tinypic.com/35ksw0l.jpg
I had to drill a hole to make the cable fit - i left the original connector on the other side as it was - so it can still be used with line 6 equipment :)

http://i61.tinypic.com/214w0h2.jpg

Test again!

ROCK

If you like it HIT THANKS
If you need support pm me – i´ll assist you.

YOU HAVE TO POST A PIC or VID of your FINISHED PROJECT IN THIS THREAT!!!!

Regards,
R

So I have been playing guitar for a while but really picked it up when I started playing rocksmith.  I have been using an extremely cheap Yamaha guitar (roughly $100) and I am thinking it is time for an upgrade.  My main hesitation is that I really only play rocksmith and that is it and my cheap guitar seems to the job just fine.  The main thing I think I would enjoy is longer sustains as my guitar fades quickly.

So my question is, is there a significant benefit to using a nicer guitar with rocksmith when compared to cheap one?

Any input appreciated, thanks.

http://i66.tinypic.com/2cibof6.jpg

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Can anybody who is using a laptop for RS2014 please list the Laptop they use and maybe a quick word on how well it runs and whether you have to reduce graphic settings etc. to be able to play.

Hopefully we can get a helpful list of laptops to help myself and others make a choice.

Thanks in advance.