Again,please help me to setup my Les Paul

[ShrillBear52]

As @@GetTheLedOut askd,i did another topic to help me at setup my Les Paul.First off,i whould like to tell,that i'm not competely an idiot,I just make decisions quickly and not think about it at once,that's why i started topics often maybe a 2-3 months ago,and then i realised,that your might think of me an autist and you're tired to help me any had enough about it,and i just stopd makeing topics often,after that,I only wrote topics,when i feeld it has to be write on now.....So you have to forgive me :D           

 

 

Now get to the Guitar Set up informations:   

                                                                      -I have problems with my Strat and my Les Paul,but let's solve the Les Paul problem,because it's bigger and it semms,that the strat.only need a nut change.

 

 

                                                                    -I can't make not bad quiality pics.because my phone has not have a very good camere(or just can't make this pic,for some reason) but get back to the point,I measured the height on the 12th fret,and it's 2mm,i set it to 2mm,because i heard in a video where the guy said,it has to be 2mm.

 

 

-I have picture about the bridge,the fretboard and the nut. I hoep you can see the pickup also in the bridge picture. If i messd something pleas let me know then i will make another picture,   and Thanks!

 

 

http://oi65.tinypic.com/2lmuccw.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

http://oi64.tinypic.com/2z4hi54.jpg

 

 

 

 

http://oi66.tinypic.com/72b03q.jpg

 

 

 

[ikwtif]

You should probably add the problem with this guitar again. Wich strings have the buzz sound? At what frets? What did you already try? etc.. Any info you can think of really so we can try to help

[GetTheLedOut]

Thanks for providing some good pictures (those are pretty good for a phone) and the measurement.

2mm for the string height at the 12th fret is a good goal, but you must adjust your truss rod/neck straightness first. This is step 4 of the tutorial It looks like you may have only adjusted the bridge height in order get the string height at 2mm. It looks like your bridge is very high and is causing the strings to arc upward at a very steep angle. This is what is making bending uncomfortable for you at the higher frets.

If your string is truly 2mm... and your bridge is that high... and you still have buzzing... it probably means that your neck is too straight and you'll need to loosen the truss rod. In fact your neck may even be bending backwards. I bet the strings are buzzing against the first frets, like your Strat. Therefore, start with step 4 of the tutorial, then work through the rest of it. You should always adjust the neck before you do anything else.

Your neck should bend a VERY SMALL amount forward (away from you when standing) when the strings are fully tuned. Looking down the neck like this will help you see it. Once your neck isn't so straight, then you'll be able to lower the bridge and still have the string height at about 2mm at the 12th fret.

The tutorial also talks about pickup height, yours look pretty low, but you can adjust this last.

[GetTheLedOut]

You should probably add the problem with this guitar again. Wich strings have the buzz sound? At what frets? What did you already try? etc.. Any info you can think of really so we can try to help

He has said that all open strings buzz except for the B and high e strings. I seem to remember that he also said that his fingers would go under the others strings when bending. That's a pretty uncomfortable feeling  :o

[missis sumner]

What is the problem - fret buzz?

 

First things first, and I don't know exactly what has been said before (I saw a bit), but there's no point in setting string height without setting the relief in the neck first.

 

You can check if you have any relief in the neck by using your string as a straight edge.  Tune your guitar before you start. Use your lowest string and finger the first fret (as if you're going to playing that note).  Then press down on the same string on the 14th fret with the thumb of your right hand, and with your same right hand tap as far up the fretboard as you can with your index finger at a fret position to see if theres any space at all.  Ideally you're aiming to hold down the string at three equally spaced points - one on the first fret, one low down on the neck and one about midway - where you're measuring the gap.  Where your right hand thumb actually goes therefore depends on your hand size so you might have to move your right had away from the 14th fret where I told you to start… :)  Also, I'm describing me setting up my bass, but guitar is very similar.

 

Try pressing your string down as I've described - it there a gap under your index finger?  Please report back.

[ikwtif]

 

You should probably add the problem with this guitar again. Wich strings have the buzz sound? At what frets? What did you already try? etc.. Any info you can think of really so we can try to help

He has said that all open strings buzz except for the B and high e strings. I seem to remember that he also said that his fingers would go under the others strings when bending. That's a pretty uncomfortable feeling  :o

 

 

Yeah, fingers going under strings while bending is defenitly too high action. I tought the bridge looked fairly high.

 

Only open strings buzzing defenitly sounds like the neck has the wrong bow / is too straight. 

[ShrillBear52]

Thanks for providing some good pictures (those are pretty good for a phone) and the measurement.

 

2mm for the string height at the 12th fret is a good goal, but you must adjust your truss rod/neck straightness first. This is step 4 of the tutorial It looks like you may have only adjusted the bridge height in order get the string height at 2mm. It looks like your bridge is very high and is causing the strings to arc upward at a very steep angle. This is what is making bending uncomfortable for you at the higher frets.

 

If your string is truly 2mm... and your bridge is that high... and you still have buzzing... it probably means that your neck is too straight and you'll need to loosen the truss rod. In fact your neck may even be bending backwards. I bet the strings are buzzing against the first frets, like your Strat. Therefore, start with step 4 of the tutorial, then work through the rest of it. You should always adjust the neck before you do anything else.

 

Your neck should bend a VERY SMALL amount forward (away from you when standing) when the strings are fully tuned. Looking down the neck like this will help you see it. Once your neck isn't so straight, then you'll be able to lower the bridge and still have the string height at about 2mm at the 12th fret.

 

The tutorial also talks about pickup height, yours look pretty low, but you can adjust this last.

The only problem with the trus rod, is doesn't realy want to move in any direction,so i stucks this point currently,also i lowerd the pickups because in my experience it caused some string buzz especially on the G string,but now in others to exepct the B and high e string again.But I'll to set the trus rod again,see if theres any change now.Also i think i should tie the neck,because it's more than just uncomfortable playing it's unplayable.

 

 

 

Edit: I succsed to MOVE the trus rod,but it was very hard to do,is that normal?

[GetTheLedOut]

It shouldn't be too hard to move, but as long as it's moving, you should be fine. Generally speaking it's a bad sign if the truss rod takes a lot of effort to adjust, but if it's a cheaper guitar, it might just be because of the build quality. My guess would be that it's nothing to worry about.

Just make sure that you loosen the strings before adjusting the truss rod. The added pressure of the strings may be making it harder to turn.

Once your neck and bridge are properly adjusted, then you can return your pickups to their normal height, and they won't be causing an buzzing.

[ShrillBear52]

It shouldn't be too hard to move, but as long as it's moving, you should be fine. Generally speaking it's a bad sign if the truss rod takes a lot of effort to adjust, but if it's a cheaper guitar, it might just be because of the build quality. My guess would be that it's nothing to worry about.

 

Just make sure that you loosen the strings before adjusting the truss rod. The added pressure of the strings may be making it harder to turn.

 

Once your neck and bridge are properly adjusted, then you can return your pickups to their normal height, and they won't be causing an buzzing.

Lose the strings? Well that's intresting,i heard in a few videos that i have to leave the strings in tunning,in order to make the trus rod,and it will keep the settings,also i do not think i should lose te trus rod,I'll try to make another video for it,to see what i'M talking about.

[GetTheLedOut]

 

It shouldn't be too hard to move, but as long as it's moving, you should be fine. Generally speaking it's a bad sign if the truss rod takes a lot of effort to adjust, but if it's a cheaper guitar, it might just be because of the build quality. My guess would be that it's nothing to worry about.

 

Just make sure that you loosen the strings before adjusting the truss rod. The added pressure of the strings may be making it harder to turn.

 

Once your neck and bridge are properly adjusted, then you can return your pickups to their normal height, and they won't be causing an buzzing.

Lose the strings? Well that's intresting,i heard in a few videos that i have to leave the strings in tunning,in order to make the trus rod,and it will keep the settings,also i do not think i should lose te trus rod,I'll try to make another video for it,to see what i'M talking about.

 

What I meant is that the tension of the strings may be causing the truss rod to be difficult to turn. You don't HAVE to loosen them in order to adjust the truss rod. I do, because I'd rather not cause the extra stress on my neck.

 

Why do you think that you don't have to loosen the truss rod? What is the shape of your neck right now? Which way does it bend?

[ShrillBear52]

 

 

It shouldn't be too hard to move, but as long as it's moving, you should be fine. Generally speaking it's a bad sign if the truss rod takes a lot of effort to adjust, but if it's a cheaper guitar, it might just be because of the build quality. My guess would be that it's nothing to worry about.

 

Just make sure that you loosen the strings before adjusting the truss rod. The added pressure of the strings may be making it harder to turn.

 

Once your neck and bridge are properly adjusted, then you can return your pickups to their normal height, and they won't be causing an buzzing.

Lose the strings? Well that's intresting,i heard in a few videos that i have to leave the strings in tunning,in order to make the trus rod,and it will keep the settings,also i do not think i should lose te trus rod,I'll try to make another video for it,to see what i'M talking about.

 

What I meant is that the tension of the strings may be causing the truss rod to be difficult to turn. You don't HAVE to loosen them in order to adjust the truss rod. I do, because I'd rather not cause the extra stress on my neck.

 

Why do you think that you don't have to loosen the truss rod? What is the shape of your neck right now? Which way does it bend?

 

I meant,for when you turn the hex key in it,you chould lose or tie the neck,i will show in another video in the morning what i'm talking about.

[GetTheLedOut]

 

 

 

It shouldn't be too hard to move, but as long as it's moving, you should be fine. Generally speaking it's a bad sign if the truss rod takes a lot of effort to adjust, but if it's a cheaper guitar, it might just be because of the build quality. My guess would be that it's nothing to worry about.

 

Just make sure that you loosen the strings before adjusting the truss rod. The added pressure of the strings may be making it harder to turn.

 

Once your neck and bridge are properly adjusted, then you can return your pickups to their normal height, and they won't be causing an buzzing.

Lose the strings? Well that's intresting,i heard in a few videos that i have to leave the strings in tunning,in order to make the trus rod,and it will keep the settings,also i do not think i should lose te trus rod,I'll try to make another video for it,to see what i'M talking about.

 

What I meant is that the tension of the strings may be causing the truss rod to be difficult to turn. You don't HAVE to loosen them in order to adjust the truss rod. I do, because I'd rather not cause the extra stress on my neck.

 

Why do you think that you don't have to loosen the truss rod? What is the shape of your neck right now? Which way does it bend?

 

I meant,for when you turn the hex key in it,you chould lose or tie the neck,i will show in another video in the morning what i'm talking about.

 

You'll want to turn it to the left, or counter-clockwise if you are looking into the hole where the truss rod is. If you are going to take a video or a picture, it would be helpful if you use the same angle as the picture of your string height. Showing all the way from the nut to the bridge - and let us know if the video was taken before or after you've adjusted the truss rod.

[ShrillBear52]

 

 

 

 

It shouldn't be too hard to move, but as long as it's moving, you should be fine. Generally speaking it's a bad sign if the truss rod takes a lot of effort to adjust, but if it's a cheaper guitar, it might just be because of the build quality. My guess would be that it's nothing to worry about.

 

Just make sure that you loosen the strings before adjusting the truss rod. The added pressure of the strings may be making it harder to turn.

 

Once your neck and bridge are properly adjusted, then you can return your pickups to their normal height, and they won't be causing an buzzing.

Lose the strings? Well that's intresting,i heard in a few videos that i have to leave the strings in tunning,in order to make the trus rod,and it will keep the settings,also i do not think i should lose te trus rod,I'll try to make another video for it,to see what i'M talking about.

 

What I meant is that the tension of the strings may be causing the truss rod to be difficult to turn. You don't HAVE to loosen them in order to adjust the truss rod. I do, because I'd rather not cause the extra stress on my neck.

 

Why do you think that you don't have to loosen the truss rod? What is the shape of your neck right now? Which way does it bend?

 

I meant,for when you turn the hex key in it,you chould lose or tie the neck,i will show in another video in the morning what i'm talking about.

 

You'll want to turn it to the left, or counter-clockwise if you are looking into the hole where the truss rod is. If you are going to take a video or a picture, it would be helpful if you use the same angle as the picture of your string height. Showing all the way from the nut to the bridge - and let us know if the video was taken before or after you've adjusted the truss rod.

 

First sorry that i promised the videon in the morning,but I only had now the chance to record it,in the video i showd how high the strings are(just a look at the fretboard) and then the nut again,and then how it looks like a bending right now,and I was that stupid,that i tied the trus rod more at some point,but if I remember right,the last time I losed it more,hope it can figure it out in the video,and now 2 off topic questions if you don't mind :P  first ,i get this message in eof wich tells me,that 'at least one slide note doesn't define it's ending positions.Unless you define this information,they will export as 1 fret slides.' and another wich tells me,that one slide positions has an error in the end position,and it will not export as a slide.I usually get this messages,but I ignord them as well,my question whould be how to set up the ending position? Cause every time i set it to end ending fret,it always give me the same warning about this.And for las how can i make DD like in official DLCs has? Or is there any guide to do it? I hope these not a big deal and Thanks!   The video: http://www.filedropper.com/mov0054

[Mostly Rancid]

Can you take a decent photo of the headstock

[GetTheLedOut]

@@ShrillBear52 That video doesn't show anything helpful, and the angle doesn't show the bend of your neck (like I asked). I'm sorry, but I'm done with the guitar set-up stuff, dude. I'd really love to help you, but clearly I can't. Perhaps someone else can. Either both of your guitars are complete pieces of crap, or you have trouble following directions. Or both.

Just read and follow the tutorial that I've already linked you to multiple times. It's all there, I promise. Start at the beginning and finish at the end. Apparently, that's the best advice I can give you. I've spent SO MUCH time trying to help you with this across several threads, and it's gone nowhere.

As for the EoF questions... you just need to define where the slide ends, because it's probably not specified in the guitar pro tab.

There are two types of slides that Rocksmith supports:

1) pitched slides (EoF shortcut of CTRL+UP/DOWN) - where the note trail straightens out slightly, showing the the slide ends on a specific fret

2) un-pitched slides (EoF shortcut of CTRL+U) - with these slides, the note trail fades away and doesn't clearly indicate where the slide ends

If pitched slides do not have an ending fret, you'll get that error message - it's pretty self-explanatory. You can fix them by using the above shortcuts and entering in a fret number. 

The error message about an "error in the ending position" is because the ending point of the slide doesn't make sense. For example, a note played at the 5th fret can have a slide down to the 7th fret, can it? This also applies to chords. For a downward slide, you must slide past the lowest fretted note, and vice versa for upward slides.

The error messages keep popping up after you've fixed them because there are probably multiple slides that need to be fixed in the song. You can easily select and fix them all by clicking on the note and pressing SHIFT+L followed by the shortcut for a pitched or un-pitched slide (depending on which one you want). SHIFT+L selects all notes that are EXACTLY the same. If there are notes played on different frets whose slides need to be fixed, then just repeat this for those notes.

As for DD, I'm really not the best person to answer that. I don't personally like DD myself (it's easier for me to learn by slowing the song down), so I just use the DDC tool in the toolkit so that others can use DD with my customs if they want. It works well enough the vast majority of us.

[ShrillBear52]

@@ShrillBear52 That video doesn't show anything helpful, and the angle doesn't show the bend of your neck (like I asked). I'm sorry, but I'm done with the guitar set-up stuff, dude. I'd really love to help you, but clearly I can't. Perhaps someone else can. Either both of your guitars are complete pieces of crap, or you have trouble following directions. Or both.

 

Just read and follow the tutorial that I've already linked you to multiple times. It's all there, I promise. Start at the beginning and finish at the end. Apparently, that's the best advice I can give you. I've spent SO MUCH time trying to help you with this across several threads, and it's gone nowhere.

 

As for the EoF questions... you just need to define where the slide ends, because it's probably not specified in the guitar pro tab.

 

There are two types of slides that Rocksmith supports:

 

1) pitched slides (EoF shortcut of CTRL+UP/DOWN) - where the note trail straightens out slightly, showing the the slide ends on a specific fret

 

2) un-pitched slides (EoF shortcut of CTRL+U) - with these slides, the note trail fades away and doesn't clearly indicate where the slide ends

 

If pitched slides do not have an ending fret, you'll get that error message - it's pretty self-explanatory. You can fix them by using the above shortcuts and entering in a fret number. 

 

The error message about an "error in the ending position" is because the ending point of the slide doesn't make sense. For example, a note played at the 5th fret can have a slide down to the 7th fret, can it? This also applies to chords. For a downward slide, you must slide past the lowest fretted note, and vice versa for upward slides.

 

The error messages keep popping up after you've fixed them because there are probably multiple slides that need to be fixed in the song. You can easily select and fix them all by clicking on the note and pressing SHIFT+L followed by the shortcut for a pitched or un-pitched slide (depending on which one you want). SHIFT+L selects all notes that are EXACTLY the same. If there are notes played on different frets whose slides need to be fixed, then just repeat this for those notes.

 

As for DD, I'm really not the best person to answer that. I don't personally like DD myself (it's easier for me to learn by slowing the song down), so I just use the DDC tool in the toolkit so that others can use DD with my customs if they want. It works well enough the vast majority of us.

Well it's been a while,but I tookd my Les Paul to a guitarstore,they said they 'madi it',the guitar's set up,I even payd 11 euro(3500 Ft) to them for the work,but I will fucking hang my self with the guitar strings!!!!!! IT'S FUCKING SHIT,the buzz is so bad,that it hurt my ear a lot,even in standard tunning,but i tunned down to Drop D flat,and tha buzz it's not strin (or fret,whatever) buzz anymore,it's fucking earbleeding.And I can't change the stirng height,because it will make the playing uncomfortable again,and I don't even want to touch anything for example:the trus rod,the string height,the pickups and so on... Just saying,about the courrent situation

[Alex360]

Well string buzz could be a problem, but you could ignore it or, use 9'th so you don't need to push hard on strings, also place your fingers closer to the frets(away from truss rod). also is it buzz when you play at 5th\12th\15th\19th? and do it has odd sound when you do legato(I mean pitched slide) plus how easy to you bend a string? it should be almost no force, also it shouldn't touch any other frets it's important. maybe you really should use to high action for now? till you setup guitar precisely comfortable for you?

I don't know much but reading tut's doesn't really help till you feel the difference by hands :P

[Jefbyos]

If i may : some people tends to let their attention diverted by any buzz sound they may hear from the neck of their electric instrument (especially beginners playing at home at low level).

 

An electric guitar is not a classical nor a folk guitar : what really matters is what your ear through your amplifier. If you can't hear any buzz there, you're good to go, whether you may hear some coming from the neck of your instrument or not. That is important to keep that in mind, because trying to totally eradicate any buzz sound will lead you to ruin the playing comfort you may obtain of your instrument. The more you'll raise your strings or bow your neck, the harder it becomes for your left hand (if you're righty of course), to push the strings and obtain a clean sound. This will also increase the difficulty to bend the strings...

 

The playing comfort one may achieve depends of the quality level of the instrument (and technical choices made by the craftsman - to make it short, you won't be able to obtain the same playability on a Gibson LP than on a PRS). It also depends of your playing style : if you're the soft attack kind, it will definitely help. Players with a powerful right hand and thick mediators will experience more buzzing sounds... Sometimes, and depending your playing style and what your guitar may support, changing the strings gauge may be a good idea : thicker gauges will definitely add tension you'll feel when pressing or bending the strings, but they also tends to have a thinner vibration area for an attack of an equal strength, allowing to go a bit closer to the neck. Plus, you'll get a guitar with a better support of low tunings.

 

Also about strings height : the lower you get, the brighter your sound will be, due to the proximity of the frets. I personally think that it's a good thing to balance your instrument so you may achieve a clear and metallic sound with a powerful stroke. That is useful to get more expressibility from your instrument. Having a low action instrument is also a great way to get a powerful metal sound effortlessly...

 

In any case, it's strongly recommended to adjust your instrument with a brand new set of strings. The same goes if you change your strings : check of your instrument settings (especially if changing the gauge obviously, but you may perform a quick check even if you replace with the same gauge, same brand). And think to do that periodically, especially when your guitar is brand new - the wood is still a bit wet, and is often more flexible. It's important for the playability and don't let the neck of your instrument taking bad habits...

 

Finally, one more advice that some skilled players doesn't necessary do (but should do) : when mounting your strings (unless you have locking tuners), always let enough to do 3-5 complete turns of the headstock, in direction of the head. It depends of the strings (lowers can be 3, and increasing when going to higher strings). For a start, that helps the note to vibrate more on all your instrument. And, going back to the topic : that increases the string angle towards the neck. If some of you ever wondered why the head of a guitar is not in line with the neck, but with an angle (like on a Les Paul guitar) or parallel but a bit below (like on a Stratocaster) : this is for reducing the buzz. So my advice would be to mount your strings carefully, like you saw on your instrument when you bought it brand new, inducing some turns around the headstock to increase that angle a bit. If you found that doing so, mounting your strings takes too much time, and especially if you change your stings very often : buy a peg winder. Totally worth it.

 

Hope that helps.

[ShrillBear52]

If i may : some people tends to let their attention diverted by any buzz sound they may hear from the neck of their electric instrument (especially beginners playing at home at low level).

 

An electric guitar is not a classical nor a folk guitar : what really matters is what your ear through your amplifier. If you can't hear any buzz there, you're good to go, whether you may hear some coming from the neck of your instrument or not. That is important to keep that in mind, because trying to totally eradicate any buzz sound will lead you to ruin the playing comfort you may obtain of your instrument. The more you'll raise your strings or bow your neck, the harder it becomes for your left hand (if you're righty of course), to push the strings and obtain a clean sound. This will also increase the difficulty to bend the strings...

 

The playing comfort one may achieve depends of the quality level of the instrument (and technical choices made by the craftsman - to make it short, you won't be able to obtain the same playability on a Gibson LP than on a PRS). It also depends of your playing style : if you're the soft attack kind, it will definitely help. Players with a powerful right hand and thick mediators will experience more buzzing sounds... Sometimes, and depending your playing style and what your guitar may support, changing the strings gauge may be a good idea : thicker gauges will definitely add tension you'll feel when pressing or bending the strings, but they also tends to have a thinner vibration area for an attack of an equal strength, allowing to go a bit closer to the neck. Plus, you'll get a guitar with a better support of low tunings.

 

Also about strings height : the lower you get, the brighter your sound will be, due to the proximity of the frets. I personally think that it's a good thing to balance your instrument so you may achieve a clear and metallic sound with a powerful stroke. That is useful to get more expressibility from your instrument. Having a low action instrument is also a great way to get a powerful metal sound effortlessly...

 

In any case, it's strongly recommended to adjust your instrument with a brand new set of strings. The same goes if you change your strings : check of your instrument settings (especially if changing the gauge obviously, but you may perform a quick check even if you replace with the same gauge, same brand). And think to do that periodically, especially when your guitar is brand new - the wood is still a bit wet, and is often more flexible. It's important for the playability and don't let the neck of your instrument taking bad habits...

 

Finally, one more advice that some skilled players doesn't necessary do (but should do) : when mounting your strings (unless you have locking tuners), always let enough to do 3-5 complete turns of the headstock, in direction of the head. It depends of the strings (lowers can be 3, and increasing when going to higher strings). For a start, that helps the note to vibrate more on all your instrument. And, going back to the topic : that increases the string angle towards the neck. If some of you ever wondered why the head of a guitar is not in line with the neck, but with an angle (like on a Les Paul guitar) or parallel but a bit below (like on a Stratocaster) : this is for reducing the buzz. So my advice would be to mount your strings carefully, like you saw on your instrument when you bought it brand new, inducing some turns around the headstock to increase that angle a bit. If you found that doing so, mounting your strings takes too much time, and especially if you change your stings very often : buy a peg winder. Totally worth it.

 

Hope that helps.

Wow,thank you,I will definetly buy a new set of strings,and I will leave some place to the strings when I mounth them.It kinda explains the buzzing,because I didn't gave any attention for this.Also, I'm not willing to buy Earni Ball or Ddario strings anymore,they both sucks. :P 

[Jefbyos]

One thing strikes me : you said that you went to a store to get the job done. Didn't the guitar tech change your strings ? Or, did he tried to do the job on your guitar equipped with an used set of strings ? If it's the latter, i would definitely advise to seek a more skilled guitar tech...

 

I found a video where the guy explains it well, i guess.

 

 

I could add one or two tricks of my own, but it would complicate things for beginners (also considering my english is far from perfect). Consider you have everything you really need there, if you can do the same you're good to go ;)

[ShrillBear52]

One thing strikes me : you said that you went to a store to get the job done. Didn't the guitar tech change your strings ? Or, did he tried to do the job on your guitar equipped with an used set of strings ? If it's the latter, i would definitely advise to seek a more skilled guitar tech...

 

I found a video where the guy explains it well, i guess.

 

 

I could add one or two tricks of my own, but it would complicate things for beginners (also considering my english is far from perfect). Consider you have everything you really need there, if you can do the same you're good to go ;)

First off,thank you for send this video to me,I found the best way to restring my guitar and it's awsome! :D  Second,yes the tech didn't changed any of the string,he leaved the same strings on the Les Paul.That's not realy,how a "proffesional" should do(IMO).My G string has just broke,so I'm going to buy a new pack of strings and a pegwinder.What brand of strings whould you reccomend?? In my thoughts,I whould realy like to try out Dean Markley strings,or Clear tones(this brand has a very good new in nowdays)Unfortuneatly,this case can be,that there are no Cleartone strings,in that guitar store.However,they must have Dean Markley.because I was 1 or 2 pack was on the counter.If they also don't have this strings,then I decided to try Elixir strings(I heard this one is also good)What do you think about it?

[Jefbyos]

About strings, i never recommand anything in particular because it's a matter of taste, really.

 

There are few brands for which i could say they offer something specific : DR, Skull strings with their hard tension well-suited to metal players, or Elixir and their gore-tex thing that sound very clear and feel very comfortable. I like using Elixir strings on some acoustic guitars (if they don't sound too harsh with them !), on bass guitar for the playability (but also it brings some high tones, which is ok if you like modern active slap sounding)... But i definitely won't put those strings on most electric guitars, which doesn't need that sound. Also, you should know that they are expensive, and don't last that much...

 

Other than that, most of the common brands are pretty much alike to me. The differences are, maybe, the durability, depending of your sweat...You'll know which brand resist longer with you by trying, basically. Considering that, I often buy Dean Markley for instruments that doesn't require a specific type of strings, because they're available everywhere, they're cheap, you'll find a good offer of tensions, and you'll get the job done with them.